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  1. #21
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    I vote against concrete.

    I have a concrete driveway and it has cracked in a few spots, not making it dangerous but uneven really but it becomes a nuisance in the rain and snow. The driveway freezes so damn fast that the only thing that works is magnesium to stop it, and the cracks make it a bitch to shovel.

    I'm actually looking into ripping it up and paving it in the future. I have a double wide driveway where half is concrete and half is stones and I can't stand either really.

  2. #22
    Chram
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    Cracked concrete driveways are from being too thin, improperly built base, and/or improper use/lack of expansion joints.

  3. #23
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    Yeah I didn't put it there, but I have to remove it and replace it.

    Also freezes fast and the black ice on it is much worse than you see on roadways, you literally can't step on it without slipping.

  4. #24

    I work construction here in Florida, mostly used to do structural concrete work.

    I pretty much agree with most here when they say to tear back the existing drive way. For a regular sized driveway, I would rent a small Bobcat, it's possible you could contract a local rent place to provide you with rental and operator to do the job. It should not take more than 8 hours to rip up, which here comes out to about $500. You'll also need a Dumpster to haul this fill away, unless you want to keep it on site for any reason. You can rent these per Cubic Yard, 5/10/20/30. You're probably looking on the short end there. What's great though, since you'll be having the same kind of material, you could get a deal for removal of just rocks. Dumpster or Truck Hauling would come out to about $200-300.

    Now that you have your driveway clear, you're going to want to level it out. For this I would rent a Plate Compactor ($100~ from Home Depot), and some Sand to even out the ueven parts. you Run the compactor, spread some sand, run it again, until its leveled.

    As for the Run Off problem for the future. I would install some French Drains along the sides and down the middle. If only want to do sides, you're going to want to slope the driveway ground towards the sides, think Pyramid shape. You don't need much of a slope really.
    http://media.askbuild.com/legacy/french_drain.jpg
    This will help for future runoff, and not muddy up your driveway, causing your gravel on top to start creating holes and what not.

    So, you have your driveway cleared, and compacted. At this point you can do a couple of things to fancy it up, if you have leftover budget, and are up for it. I strongly suggest you add a layer of Landscape Fabric, which will help keep out weeds from growing through, and also adds a layer of rigidity to the rocks that will go on top. You can go all out and add some concrete curbs if your up for some carpentry. Although I think this will be a little out of most peoples leagues to do on their own.

    Lastly, the rock! Pea Gravel, Lime Rock Gravel, any kind of gravel. You can probably even color match it to your home if need be. Personally I would want to install some kind of perimeter so that the rocks won't "overflow" and start getting on the grass and what not. I think a perimeter of brick would be nice, a single or double stack row of brick all around depending on the amount of rock you want to put on the driveway. Brick and Mortar are pretty easy to accomplish, even for a novice.

    Just thoughts. Good Luck!

  5. #25
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    Bumping again. Sorry for the delay, been real busy adapting to my new job/life changes/etc.

    Anyway, regarding the box blade? Can that break through concrete good? I just realized that this driveway was more than likely built over part of the old walkway we had leading to the road.

  6. #26
    The Shitlord
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    well fuck you sideways. no, i dont think a box blade will go through concrete, but i dont really have any experience so idk. youll have to be careful and not force it. grade off what you can, then dig out the concrete. save the concrete, btw. you can sell it to crazy people like my mom. or break it up and use it as free gravel.

  7. #27

    Sweaty Dick Punching Enthusiast

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    Quote Originally Posted by Corrderio View Post
    Bumping again. Sorry for the delay, been real busy adapting to my new job/life changes/etc.

    Anyway, regarding the box blade? Can that break through concrete good? I just realized that this driveway was more than likely built over part of the old walkway we had leading to the road.
    It isn't designed for it, no. If it's broken up concrete(small not a big ass slab) you won't have much problem. I've come across large rocks and not had to bad of an issue, pins will shear before you damage the tractor. Low range and first gear you'll know pretty quick.

  8. #28
    Chram
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    Box blade is more like a garden Roto tiller. You're going to want to rent one of those Bosch yellow electric jackhammers that everyone carriesto bust up the sidewalk or walkway. You're getting farther and farther away from cheap fix to last a couple years though. Is this your parents place and you actually want to build them a solid driveway?

    Quote Originally Posted by Boyiee View Post
    Yeah I didn't put it there, but I have to remove it and replace it.

    Also freezes fast and the black ice on it is much worse than you see on roadways, you literally can't step on it without slipping.
    Blacktop doors the advantage of heating up from the sun easier to melt. That's where salt and radiant heat comes in though.

  9. #29

    Throw gravel over top and call it a day. You are wasting money and time otherwise.

    Replace your wood border 4x4's or whatever those are. And take them all the way out to the main road. Make sure they are level. Then, back fill gravel to the top of the 4x4 or whatever edge posts you using on the ground. Use Yella-Wood or a similar brand that has been treated for ground contact. Otherwise you'll be pull those border blocks up every couple years to replace them.

    And someone mentioned blacktop only lasting a year? The majority of homes in the north east use blacktop. You seal it every year or two, but it lasts at least 10-12 years with the proper care. My blacktop parking area is roughly 7-10 years old. It's only just now starting to show a little wear because I didn't seal it the past 2 years.

  10. #30
    Falcom is better than SE. Change my mind.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quixon View Post
    Throw gravel over top and call it a day. You are wasting money and time otherwise.

    Replace your wood border 4x4's or whatever those are. And take them all the way out to the main road. Make sure they are level. Then, back fill gravel to the top of the 4x4 or whatever edge posts you using on the ground. Use Yella-Wood or a similar brand that has been treated for ground contact. Otherwise you'll be pull those border blocks up every couple years to replace them.

    And someone mentioned blacktop only lasting a year? The majority of homes in the north east use blacktop. You seal it every year or two, but it lasts at least 10-12 years with the proper care. My blacktop parking area is roughly 7-10 years old. It's only just now starting to show a little wear because I didn't seal it the past 2 years.
    Considering the sidewalk this might be the best plan. Though I'll probably get some dirt first to fill a hole in and the one I'm making when I dig that tree up.

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