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  1. #1
    2600klub
    ǝƃuɐɥɔ ǝlʇıʇ ɥʇ01 ǝɥʇ ǝʞıl sı sıɥʇ ƃɯo ʎuunɟ ƃuıɥʇǝɯos ɥɐlq ɥɐlq ɥɐlq ǝɥ ǝǝǝǝǝǝǝlopuɐʌ puǝıɹɟ ʇsǝq s,poƃ ǝsɹoɥ ǝɥʇ sı ǝɥ ǝǝǝǝǝǝlopuɐʌ

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    Car Hagglan 101: or how to get dole ripped off

    The car I'm driving now..... I put more money into it in the last two weeks than the dealership even offered to me for a trade-in. So, that kind of red-flagged me to step up and buy my first car. In fact, I plan on buying a car this weekend. I found a honda certified(is this a thing or just some bullshit) used 2012 hyundai veloster with 39k miles on it for a price I don't hate.

    http://allenhyundai.com/UsedCars/201...Model=Veloster

    http://contentservice.mc.reyrey.net/...64190/23777476

    15k.

    http://allenhyundai.com/UsedCars/201...Model=Veloster

    17k. (help me spot the differences? looks to be mainly interior + sound system.)

    I have a few things on my side. Fresh graduate, job, and a good credit score. What should I anticipate while getting audibly fucked by the salesman? the cunt already tried to sway me to spend ten thousand more on a brand new one, but I'm not that fucking stupid. A turbo would be nice, but I'm frankly not spending 10k more just for that to be the differential feature.

    How low should I offer to let him know I'm not a dumbfuck? What kind of experience have you had buying from a dealership? Also... general advice.

    On a side note: My car insurance on this actually won't be bad, so before you ask that I've looked it up.

    Also, I hear that this one comes with a macbook wheel. Fingers crossed.

  2. #2
    Hackey Thread Lurker since 2010
    I could have bought an 11 pull and have 1000 gems left over, but all I got was this silly title.

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    Do your homework when it comes to financing. Try a bank or credit union to see what you prequalify for. When I bought my car, they tried to throw at me a 6.9% rate over 60 months. I countered with what they advertised on their website, 4.9% over 48 months (yea I could afford the payments on the shorter term, and I was really confident my credit was pristine.) I said I wanted that promo rate with confidence, and they gave it to me after 15 minutes of trying to ice me as they "checked to see if the financing department will approve it."

    As for haggling, I'm terrible at it. So can't offer advice there. 36k miles on a 3-4 year old car is low for its age (average car they assume goes 15k miles/year). So that's why this guy is trying to upsell you to a new when obviously it's a luxury. Plus I can't find out whether a turbo requires premium at the pump. I know it varies by make but most of the cars with turbo I know require 91.

  3. #3

    Buy a beater for 2-4k and save yourself the interest and car payments. Put that payment you'd be paying towards paying down your other debt, student loan/credit/whatever and then bank it afterwards.

  4. #4

    Sweaty Dick Punching Enthusiast

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    Certified just means they were able to verify it was kept to the maintenance schedule and has low mileage. That normally comes with a bit longer warranty, local toyota place does 7year 70k miles for a "certified pre-owned". 15k won't be your out-the-door price, be wary of any additional warranties they want to add as that will increase your final price. You may not have much room to haggle since that is the absolute bottom end of fair market value according to KBB. If you haven't yet, research your trade-in value for your current vehicle as there may be some wiggle room there. They might play with lowering it by 500-1k, but I doubt it. You can always pull the "If you drop it to 14k, I'll sign today" line.

  5. #5
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    If you work at it, you can get the dealership to go 10% lower than the sticker price on most cars. After that, play the discount game. Sign up for offers on the manufacturer's website and then wait a few weeks. Typically they'll send you some kind of coupon for 500-1k off. Frequently the dealership or manufacturer will also give you some kind of rebate for financing part of it, which you can then pay off immediately (despite what they tell you).

    I got a 2015 Ford Fusion for 18k this past December by comboing about 5 deals.

    If your car is going to be worth dramatically more than the one you currently have, make sure you talk to your insurance company and can handle the new payments.

  6. #6
    I trusted Zet and this is what happened
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    The biggest part of haggling: you have to be willing to walk off the lot. The closer you get to that, the more likely you will get the dealership's bottom offer because they are trained not to let you leave.

  7. #7
    2600klub
    ǝƃuɐɥɔ ǝlʇıʇ ɥʇ01 ǝɥʇ ǝʞıl sı sıɥʇ ƃɯo ʎuunɟ ƃuıɥʇǝɯos ɥɐlq ɥɐlq ɥɐlq ǝɥ ǝǝǝǝǝǝǝlopuɐʌ puǝıɹɟ ʇsǝq s,poƃ ǝsɹoɥ ǝɥʇ sı ǝɥ ǝǝǝǝǝǝlopuɐʌ

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    my goal right now is to tell them i'm only going to be paying a price that is 15% off the sticker, with the goal of 10% off. if they don't play game, i'm bailing. they will call me if they really want my money.

    right?

  8. #8

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaslo View Post
    The biggest part of haggling: you have to be willing to walk off the lot. The closer you get to that, the more likely you will get the dealership's bottom offer because they are trained not to let you leave.
    That's the best advice you can get. When they are willing to let you walk away you know you have the best deal possible. My advice is haggle until they let you leave, and leave them with "if you can do any better give me a call" if they don't call you within a day, you know you've won and go back and get the deal they last offered you. they'll do it and not try to sell you again just to get the sale.

    don't do outrageous stuff though. be prepared to spend a lot of time, the more time you spend the more they'll want their time to not have been wasted and work with you. if you go in and spend 5 minutes and give some stupid price and say take it or leave it they'll tell you to leave since they haven't invested any time.

    go for the test drive, sit down, let them go over the numbers, say no. they'll go to their manager to work something out, say no, and repeat until they let you leave. keep saying they are close and you really want it but just can't do that price, or can't put that much down or whatever it is you need to say. doesn't matter if it's true or not. your job is to get a good deal. they'll manipulate the numbers various ways to benefit them.

    and don't forget to say you don't want to pay their outrageous dealer fee. esp if it's like 400-600$. it's just bonus profit, that'll show them you know your shit and are serious.

    good luck

  9. #9
    The Shitlord
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penthesilea View Post
    Buy a beater for 2-4k and save yourself the interest and car payments. Put that payment you'd be paying towards paying down your other debt, student loan/credit/whatever and then bank it afterwards.
    the problem with beaters is that they break down at the most inopportune moments and you then have to spend more money fixing them, instead of replacing them

  10. #10
    Salvage Bans
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    I always buy new so it's probably a bit different, but I just make them compete with competitors by going back and forth with them over basically the same car. I just email the managers cutting out the sales pitch and use the internets to figure out the dealerships invoice. Usually net the lowest price plus an upgrade of some sort.

    I imagine if you can find an apples to apples comparison at a competitor you could do the same thing for a used car, though it's probably a bit more involved. Like a history report, visual inspection, and test drive are probably necessary before buying.

  11. #11
    United States of Smash!
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    I think the biggest tool to haggle for a vehicle is to get them to throw in extras. Typically on a used car I have found that you can get them to throw in more extras because it is cheaper for them but saves you a ton of money. Extended warranty, premium floor mats, service contract so they change the oil and service it for free for x amount of time, I got a sliding rear window and tow package installed on my truck, fog lights, etc.

    Those can be in addition to monetary discounts to really get your deal better.

  12. #12

    Sweaty Dick Punching Enthusiast

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vandole View Post
    my goal right now is to tell them i'm only going to be paying a price that is 15% off the sticker, with the goal of 10% off. if they don't play game, i'm bailing. they will call me if they really want my money.

    right?
    Based on that they are at the bottom end of fair market value, it may be going to auction within a week or two.

  13. #13
    2600klub
    ǝƃuɐɥɔ ǝlʇıʇ ɥʇ01 ǝɥʇ ǝʞıl sı sıɥʇ ƃɯo ʎuunɟ ƃuıɥʇǝɯos ɥɐlq ɥɐlq ɥɐlq ǝɥ ǝǝǝǝǝǝǝlopuɐʌ puǝıɹɟ ʇsǝq s,poƃ ǝsɹoɥ ǝɥʇ sı ǝɥ ǝǝǝǝǝǝlopuɐʌ

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    Quote Originally Posted by FNH View Post
    Based on that they are at the bottom end of fair market value, it may be going to auction within a week or two.
    So, I talked with the salesman over the phone. I figured it may be easier to handle this over the phone.

    Right now: i've settled with the more expensive one after looking at finances. Down to 15,500 with 72 month financing at 2.9%. 10 year 100k warranty

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vandole View Post
    So, I talked with the salesman over the phone. I figured it may be easier to handle this over the phone.

    Right now: i've settled with the more expensive one after looking at finances. Down to 15,500 with 72 month financing at 2.9%. 10 year 100k warranty
    Get a service package thrown in. Don't underestimate free services/oil changes my wife got that on her car and it was great. Also check with local banks and credit unions often you can get great rates through them.

  15. #15
    Formerly BGTemp // TERA Fan
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    I've bought all my cars from dealerships. Most of it comes down to the salesman you're dealing with. If you come in and say you want a specific car and he urges you to buy a new one, go with someone else. Seriously, someone there will listen to you for your money. Not try and dick you around.

  16. #16
    2600klub
    ǝƃuɐɥɔ ǝlʇıʇ ɥʇ01 ǝɥʇ ǝʞıl sı sıɥʇ ƃɯo ʎuunɟ ƃuıɥʇǝɯos ɥɐlq ɥɐlq ɥɐlq ǝɥ ǝǝǝǝǝǝǝlopuɐʌ puǝıɹɟ ʇsǝq s,poƃ ǝsɹoɥ ǝɥʇ sı ǝɥ ǝǝǝǝǝǝlopuɐʌ

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rulke View Post
    I've bought all my cars from dealerships. Most of it comes down to the salesman you're dealing with. If you come in and say you want a specific car and he urges you to buy a new one, go with someone else. Seriously, someone there will listen to you for your money. Not try and dick you around.
    he tried that, said dont waste my time and he hasnt brought it up since.

    i also don't need a service package since i live 4hrs from the dealer, but i guess i can try to get them to throw it in.

  17. #17
    I like to eat food
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vandole View Post
    he tried that, said dont waste my time and he hasnt brought it up sense.

    i also don't need a service package since i live 4hrs from the dealer, but i guess i can try to get them to throw it in.
    A lot of times it's with that dealer specifically. They offered that when I bought my car, but I told them I'm not driving 2 hours to get my oil changed. Have them offer something else. I got all-weather mats and a bumper guard instead.

  18. #18
    BEAHCAT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaslo View Post
    The biggest part of haggling: you have to be willing to walk off the lot. The closer you get to that, the more likely you will get the dealership's bottom offer because they are trained not to let you leave.
    This, walk away and let them sweat/call you back in after a few days.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tokitoki View Post
    A lot of times it's with that dealer specifically. They offered that when I bought my car, but I told them I'm not driving 2 hours to get my oil changed. Have them offer something else. I got all-weather mats and a bumper guard instead.
    It depends on the car brand. My wife's Ford Focus came with a service package that she could go to any authorized Ford dealer for oil changes and regular maintenance. With Nissan I know it is specific to the dealer. But yeah other perks are a good way to sweeten the deal too.

  20. #20
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    Have you researched the trims and options of that Veloster and what that car's MSRP was? The site says it has a DCT, in which case it may have been the lowest-trim Veloster, whose MSRP right now is 18k. It may have had a few options, but I can't imagine the car's MSRP having been above $20k.

    I expect a lot more than ~$4k off of a 3/4-year-old car with nearly 40k miles. The car was probably a 3yr/36k lease return, whose residuals almost never go above 60%. And if it was a lease, it means the original owner probably had no intention of keeping it or taking care of it (beyond the bare minimum). I wouldn't value that car for more than $10-12k.

    If you're in the $15k range already, why not shop for a new car? There are lots of sub-compacts that can be had for under $20k. New Civics start out at $18.5k. Fits are much cheaper.

    In general, new cars can be had for their MSRP price, out the door. That is, you can usually talk the sales price of the car 10-15% off of MSRP. The sales price of a new Civic could be as low as $16-17k, which is barely more than your current price (for a better car). They won't be as well equipped, but you'll get better financing, and the car will be brand new.

    EDIT:
    If you really like the Veloster, get a few quotes on a brand new one, and see how that compares to your current price. If after that, you're still set on the used one, you can leverage the new quote to get an even better price on the used one:

    "You're trying to sell me a used 2012 model with 40k miles for $15.5k when I can get a brand new 2016 model for $18k?"

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