PC Build Advice/Review II: 3090 or Bust.

[Arkanna]

I have a fresh install of Windows 10 so this won't be an issue for me. Maybe I will pick up the 960 then. Not like I have much to reinstall at this point...

WHat motherboard would you be installing the 960 in, out of curiosity?

[avelle]

WHat motherboard would you be installing the 960 in, out of curiosity?

Spoiler: show

I have a MSI Z170A Gaming M7 board. I have traditionally been an Asus guy but the temptation to match my MSI 1080 was too much.

[Arkanna]

Spoiler: show

I have a MSI Z170A Gaming M7 board. I have traditionally been an Asus guy but the temptation to match my MSI 1080 was too much.

Nice (just wanted to make sure it had a PCIe x4 M.2 slot)

[avelle]

Nice (just wanted to make sure it had a PCIe x4 M.2 slot)

Thanks for looking out.

[Arkanna]

For what it's worth, Kaby Lake is looking like a bum upgrade over Skylake, so waiting may in fact NOT be worthwhile. Kaby Lake's biggest improvement over Skylake is the integrated GPU, but most of us here won't give two squirrel fucks about that. Otherwise it seems to show about a 1% performance increase over Skylake, while consuming a little more power at the same time.

Hopefully AMD's Zen actually has some teeth to get Intel off its Chariot of Complacency.

[Gryffes]

Yeah Kaby Lake is a fucking bust.

Cmoooon amd.

[Krandor]

Kaby Lake allowing 4k Netflix is the only real thing it has going for it over previous years hardware.

[Squah]

SSD's are gonna get expensive for a bit.

http://www.pcworld.com/article/31470...ets-tight.html

Newegg has a 512 gb Intel nvme SSD for $160ish

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820167412

I know it'll be slower than something like a 960 or 950 but this seems like a really good value for what I'm getting. Motherboard I ended up with was a Gigabyte gaming 7 which naturally has the pcie slots, but I haven't heard much about Intel ssds. However the reviews seem alright, and it is an Intel product. Should I pull the trigger? It's only like $30 more than the old SATA SSD for around the same GB. Seems good to me

[DrClout]

Took some time but I compared it to matching price points in that range and it's Read, Random Read/Write, and MTF (a measure to see if it will corrupt, so the higher the number the better) is better than most of it's competition. Especially it's Read speed where it's almost double everyone.

Competition includes:
Samsung 850 Evo: 179.99
WD Blue: 149.99
Crucial MX300: 127.99

Whether you pull the trigger or not, considering what's available in the form factor for the price point and size range, it does seem to be the better value. When comparing it to the Samsung 950 Pro alone, the stats are double for double the price.

edit: if the rate of accessing your files is worth the $30, it's a go. If not, there are plenty of other options with all comparative speeds and lower price points.

[Squah]

So I got all my parts, minus the OS. Copy/pasting my thread trying to find a definitive answer here:

Alright, so I bought an ASUS m51ad-us002s back in April-ish 2014. It came with Windows 8, and I have no idea where the disk is. My graphics card died on me about 4 months ago so I bought a new one along with a new PSU to support it. Now, I'm doing a full PC build (my first actual ground-up, I have swapped parts before), and I want to transfer my Windows OS to the new computer once I build it. Last parts will be in next week.

Now, my first concern was that the OS would be OEM since it was prebuilt. Running slmgr.vbs /dlv shows that the OS is a Retail Product Key Channel, which is good. Now, in order for the new PC to be operational, the old one will be defunct, since the GPU and PSU are being moved to the new rig. My question is can I (do I have to?) deactivate the OS product key on the old one after finding out and writing down what the key is via ProduKey software, and then reactivate it on the new computer after installing Windows with an ISO on usb? Or can I just enter the product key on the new PC and it will automatically recognize the new to be my "current" and render the OS installed on the HDD of the old computer unusable? If it makes any difference, my digital copy of windows 10 is linked to my microsoft account.

http://www.groovypost.com/howto/tran...icense-new-pc/

This walkthrough seems like it would work, but I would like to avoid having two non-functional computers if I can avoid it. Do I need to go through support or can I just enter the product key that I dig up when it asks for it during the install? Will there be an issue since it's a free windows 10 upgrade and not an actual purchased copy of windows 10?
Thanks for all your help.
tl;dr: Have prebuilt with windows 8 retail free upgraded to windows 10. Obtain product key, deactivate from PC. Take GPU/PSU out, build new PC. Install Windows 10 via USB. Follow procedure from link (or type in product key when prompted) to get windows 10 set up on new PC. Bathe in glory of new rig.

Them's the ropes. I could probably figure it out on my own after I build, but I'd rather not struggle bus my way through it lol

[Squah]

Well it's built and running; the windows key didn't work. Called support and they saw the key attached to my microsoft account, and gave me a new OEM key instead.

Everything runs great, but the 2 thigs that concern me are that the 6700k on stock clock idles around 32c, but if I open up a program, it'll jump to 50~ instantly, the Cryprig H7 will instantly wind up, and then temperatures drop right back down.

Prime 95 is a strange animal too... For the first 5~ minutes, like clockwork, temps stay around 55c. For the next 3-4 minutes, they jump to 70~, and after that they're up to 80+, at which point I stop the test because I'm a nervous wuss. I reseated the cooler and reapplied fresh paste (rice grain sized, roughly) and got same results.

[DrClout]

Resecure the heatsink one more time or just get a new one. The jumps are too sharp. The fans and sensors are definitely on point. I've done similar putting together servers thinking I clamped down the sinks properly only for the Temps to jump at start up and shut down the system.

Skylake is very powerful and heat efficient which is possibly why you don't notice anything til you start a program aka it ACTUALLY starts working.

How is the ambient Temps in the case? The Temps on the GPU/HDDs/SSDs/M.2s? Is it only the CPU jumping?

Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk

[Squah]

So the BIOS default vcore was 1.296v. I went home at lunch and fiddled some more, dropped voltage down to 1.25v after boot failing @1.23, and ran a 10 minute prime95 stress test... 63c~ max... But right at the end, before stopping the test, temps dropped down to 45c while still running 4ghz at 100%. I'll run a longer test tonight.

Room temp is about 22c, gpu temp during the stress test was 30c

[Ghost_Wheel22]

1.296v is kinda high. 1.25-1.126 fiddling tends to be a pretty good sweet spot for a stable 4.4-5Ghz OC. 65-75c at full load is totally fine. ~80c is slightly less fine but you're not going to cook it unless you're running at full loads constantly and for long periods. 85c and above means the paste might need redoing, the cooler isn't cutting it, your fan setup might need some work, or your case is set up against the 8th circle of hell and not the 9th.

[Squah]

1.296v is kinda high. 1.25-1.126 fiddling tends to be a pretty good sweet spot for a stable 4.4-5Ghz OC. 65-75c at full load is totally fine. ~80c is slightly less fine but you're not going to cook it unless you're running at full loads constantly and for long periods. 85c and above means the paste might need redoing, the cooler isn't cutting it, your fan setup might need some work, or your case is set up against the 8th circle of hell and not the 9th.

So overclocked to 4.3ghz, running 1.26 volts I think, and currently running a prime95 stress test. Sat at 48c~ for 4 minutes, now sitting at 60c 6 minutes in.

edit1: bluescreened, encountered error and restarted @12 minutes @55c. Forgot to turn off turbo boost, disabled it, set up to 4.4ghz and upped vcore to 1.275. commence test

[Squah]

So overclocked to 4.3ghz, running 1.26 volts I think, and currently running a prime95 stress test. Sat at 48c~ for 4 minutes, now sitting at 60c 6 minutes in.

edit1: bluescreened, encountered error and restarted @12 minutes @55c. Forgot to turn off turbo boost, disabled it, set up to 4.4ghz and upped vcore to 1.275. commence test

edit2: the 4.4ghz test crapped almost immediately lol, dropped it to 4.3ghz and 1.28v and have been going steady for almost 30 minutes @ max temp 68c. Temperatures seem to bounce from 50 to 65 and back every 8~ minutes.

i7-6700k btw

wtf, i clicked edit. Sorry

[DrClout]

edit2: the 4.4ghz test crapped almost immediately lol, dropped it to 4.3ghz and 1.28v and have been going steady for almost 30 minutes @ max temp 68c. Temperatures seem to bounce from 50 to 65 and back every 8~ minutes.

i7-6700k btw

wtf, i clicked edit. Sorry

that's fine. results will always vary but the temp range is good. Congrats on a successful OC.

[Squah]

Next up, a salvage build for my girlfriend with some old parts I didn't reuse from my old PC into this new one:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wjtwm8

She doesn't like me spending a ton of money on her, so she only agreed to it if we can reuse some of my parts (within reason). There is a 1TB HDD in there too, but I forget what make/model was in my old tower (it's still in there). Case preferably not have a window and mesh front, since I have 2 blue LED case fans leftover from my Rosewill Stryker M, and blue is her favorite color.

[DrClout]

Windows 10 Keys that usually go under $30. I go here and a few places on Reddit for the keys. Personally never had an issue with them and they do offer protection that still works out cheaper anyway.

Solid build that's not asking for too much or offering too little.

[Arkanna]

this threads does not work well... you would better change one

Oh, okay.