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  1. #41
    I like to eat food
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    It's a wooden subfloor, not sure the direction of the joists offhand, but I can look from the basement.

    Looks like I won't need to worry about wrecking the wall if we were to paint it now. Thanks for the info.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tokitoki View Post
    It's a wooden subfloor, not sure the direction of the joists offhand, but I can look from the basement.

    Looks like I won't need to worry about wrecking the wall if we were to paint it now. Thanks for the info.
    Well if you have an unfinished basement ceiling you may not need to rip up the subfloor (or basement finished ceiling) to install blocking (if joists are running parallel). You could grab a ladder and nail blocking to the joists from the underside and nail your wall's sill plate onto that. Take careful note of where the blocking/joists line up and carry that measurement upstairs so you can guarantee you'll be nailing into wood.

  3. #43
    Shimmy shimmy ya shimmy yam shimmy ya
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    This faucet started leaking from the brass.

    Spoiler: show


    What’s the easiest way to make it not leak anymore.

  4. #44
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    take it apart, then put it back together with more teflon tape and whatnot.

    if it leaks again, do it again and replace the leaky part.

  5. #45

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    Good chance of there being a destroyed rubber washer in there that needs replacing.

  6. #46
    Shimmy shimmy ya shimmy yam shimmy ya
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeb View Post
    Good chance of there being a destroyed rubber washer in there that needs replacing.
    BINGO!!!

    Spoiler: show

  7. #47
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    Did you try throwing a waterb... gdi when did BG grow up?

  8. #48
    Shimmy shimmy ya shimmy yam shimmy ya
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    Quote Originally Posted by Byrthnoth View Post
    Did you try throwing a waterb... gdi when did BG grow up?
    I had to wait til the wifey and baby went to sleep last night to play some MHW. Getting old sucks.

  9. #49
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    If you're going to replace that O-Ring, take the faucet piece with you to a hardware store. It's amazing how many different sizes are out there, and don't expect there to be a "typical size" O-Ring for your faucet.

  10. #50
    Shimmy shimmy ya shimmy yam shimmy ya
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    BG Homeowner and DIY Thread - Out of the Basement Edition

    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybar View Post
    If you're going to replace that O-Ring, take the faucet piece with you to a hardware store. It's amazing how many different sizes are out there, and don't expect there to be a "typical size" O-Ring for your faucet.
    Yeah. I’ll head to Lowe’s tomorrow with it. Was just gonna order it off amazon until i saw the 50 different sizes for it lol.

  11. #51
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    how did i not think of washers, wtf

  12. #52
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    I have an issue regarding electrical outlets. Used an outlet tester, and so far, 2 rooms seem to have problems.

    Room 1 has 1 outlet working normally, and 2 outlet testing open ground
    Room 2 has all outlet testing open ground.

    The problem is when I popped the open ground ones all open... the ground line is wired correctly to the green bolt. Went out and bought new 3-prong outlets and replaced 2/6 of them and they are still testing open ground, and didn't waste further time replacing other 4.

    Someone recommended GFCI outlet, will this help with the open ground issue? The house was built in 1979 (Oklahoma if you're curious).

  13. #53

    Quote Originally Posted by Rehn View Post
    I have an issue regarding electrical outlets. Used an outlet tester, and so far, 2 rooms seem to have problems.

    Room 1 has 1 outlet working normally, and 2 outlet testing open ground
    Room 2 has all outlet testing open ground.

    The problem is when I popped the open ground ones all open... the ground line is wired correctly to the green bolt. Went out and bought new 3-prong outlets and replaced 2/6 of them and they are still testing open ground, and didn't waste further time replacing other 4.

    Someone recommended GFCI outlet, will this help with the open ground issue? The house was built in 1979 (Oklahoma if you're curious).
    Somebody likely wired those outlets from an old 2 wire system that didn't have a ground. Try to find the start of where they get fed from (first plug that when disconnected shuts the rest down. If you can find this you may be able to find a bad connection to ground and fix it there. Otherwise this is where you put GFCI, power wires go on line side of plug, the wires to the other plugs go on load side. This will protect all downstream plugs, they will still show open ground, and your small plug tester if it has the gfci test button will not trip it when you try, but they will be GFCI protected, just test using plug button.

  14. #54
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    I was going to call the electrician yesterday but held off till today. Guess I must waltz my ass back up to home depot yet again to grab more stuff.

  15. #55
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    In the spring I'd like to start remodeling our bathroom. It was a foreclosure and before the bank put it up they painted everything that eggshell color. The ceiling in the bathroom is horrible and we need to do something about it. I was told something about doing a panel ceiling. Does anyone know about that or what type of panel to buy?

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalmado View Post
    In the spring I'd like to start remodeling our bathroom. It was a foreclosure and before the bank put it up they painted everything that eggshell color. The ceiling in the bathroom is horrible and we need to do something about it. I was told something about doing a panel ceiling. Does anyone know about that or what type of panel to buy?
    Define "horrible" - is it just aesthetically ugly or is there a lot of damage? You definitely don't want to cover up the damage without knowing the source.

    I'm not familiar with panel ceilings unless they mean adhesive laminate panels. From a health safety standpoint I don't prefer adhesive materials due to their off-gas properties. Many paints have come a long way to being greener and healthier. In a humid environment like bathrooms, you want coatings that are resilient to moisture which is typically why you see a lot of satin to gloss finished paint surfaces.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybar View Post
    Define "horrible" - is it just aesthetically ugly or is there a lot of damage? You definitely don't want to cover up the damage without knowing the source.

    I'm not familiar with panel ceilings unless they mean adhesive laminate panels. From a health safety standpoint I don't prefer adhesive materials due to their off-gas properties. Many paints have come a long way to being greener and healthier. In a humid environment like bathrooms, you want coatings that are resilient to moisture which is typically why you see a lot of satin to gloss finished paint surfaces.
    The majority of the ceiling paint in the tub/shower area is peeled off and discolored. The house was built in 1929 and the majority of the walls are plaster. Even tho it's the main bathroom, it's small so we need to make it as attractive as possible. It was suggested to me to do the panel because it would look good. I'm not handy and wouldn't say I have great vision for making a home look great. I just sort of do as suggested.

  18. #58
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    I am actually working on a school with this exact issue right now, so it's funny that you bring this up! The peeling paint is likely due to improper prep work on the original painted surface or the plaster finish, so if you can peel it off try to figure out where the failure is (peeling between coats or peeling from the plaster finish). You'll need to scrape off the loose paint down to the properly adhered substrate (either original paint layer or plaster finish).

    Prep:
    Prior to painting you'll want to clean the surface from dust and debris, and be sure to feather out the edges with sandpaper if you didn't get 100% of the ceiling scraped, otherwise you'll see the border edges.

    Painting:
    Painting will require a primer and top coat, don't just put in two coats of wall paint and call it a day.

    If you are installing panels the same prep work applies, but I don't know what the installation entails.

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalmado View Post
    The majority of the ceiling paint in the tub/shower area is peeled off and discolored. The house was built in 1929 and the majority of the walls are plaster. Even tho it's the main bathroom, it's small so we need to make it as attractive as possible. It was suggested to me to do the panel because it would look good. I'm not handy and wouldn't say I have great vision for making a home look great. I just sort of do as suggested.
    Uhhh... the house was built in 1929? I hope you're getting all that drywall and floor tile/adhesive/grout checked for asbestos.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  20. #60

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    Make sure you have an appropriately sized exhaust vent in there as well. Old houses typically didn't have bathroom fans, and if yours does you want to make sure someone didn't just add it in as a hack job and vent it in to the walls/floor/attic. It won't need to be huge if it's a small bathroom, but you still want a vent.

    Taking all that hot, wet air out of the bathroom will keep whatever you do from looking like shit again in a few years.

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