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  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salodin View Post
    Uhhh... the house was built in 1929? I hope you're getting all that drywall and floor tile/adhesive/grout checked for asbestos.

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    I probably should have made note of that, I take it for granted that it's a common practice where I'm coming from...but yes get that paint checked for lead. The tile is fine if it's asbestos since it's non-friable - but if you start cutting it up then you risk releasing dust and asbestos. Same with the grout.

  2. #62
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    The wallboards are most dangerous and suspect (wall and ceiling boards regardless of if they're drywall, plaster, gypsum, etc) from that age, but dont knock ceramic and vinyl tiles. Those dont fray as much as the wallboards, but if positive they're dangerous until professionally removed. Dont forget your mastic/adhesives either. If anything in your bathroom in glued to the wall or fixtures, get that glue checked out.

    Protip: often the mastics were colored to illustrate what's in it. Specifically, black adhesive/mastic often contained a common type of asbestos found in north america, red mastic often contained one found elsewhere. The color of the glue isnt the be all end all, but in a house that old if I found any adhesive that was colored anything other than white I'd immediately assume it was positive and walk out until remediated. If it was white then I'd work around it until tested. At the end of the day everything that I'm not 100% certain was added after the 80s is getting tested.

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  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salodin View Post
    The wallboards are most dangerous and suspect (wall and ceiling boards regardless of if they're drywall, plaster, gypsum, etc) from that age, but dont knock ceramic and vinyl tiles. Those dont fray as much as the wallboards, but if positive they're dangerous until professionally removed. Dont forget your mastic/adhesives either. If anything in your bathroom in glued to the wall or fixtures, get that glue checked out.

    Protip: often the mastics were colored to illustrate what's in it. Specifically, black adhesive/mastic often contained a common type of asbestos found in north america, red mastic often contained one found elsewhere. The color of the glue isnt the be all end all, but in a house that old if I found any adhesive that was colored anything other than white I'd immediately assume it was positive and walk out until remediated. If it was white then I'd work around it until tested. At the end of the day everything that I'm not 100% certain was added after the 80s is getting tested.

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    This goes for behind the walls too. Pipe and wall insulation also contained asbestos back in the day. Pipe and elbow fittings, even some types of grout and concrete. If it was a newer home I'd be less alarmist about it, but in a home of that age I wouldn't settle for anything less than a professional coming out in breathing gear taking samples all over the house if it wasnt done when originally bought, and once again in the specific rooms you now decide to remodel.

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  4. #64
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    If you or a loved one has suffered from mesothelioma...

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  5. #65
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    The paint was done in 2014 when the house was foreclosed on. But yeah, tons of little work to be done if we want to get top dollar for this house when we decide to sell. I really love the house overall. 3 bed 1 1/2 bath 1250 sq ft in a decently good neighborhood for $52K I figure is a good deal. This isn't our forever home so we figure we should start chipping away at what we can piece by piece.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rehn View Post
    I have an issue regarding electrical outlets. Used an outlet tester, and so far, 2 rooms seem to have problems.

    Room 1 has 1 outlet working normally, and 2 outlet testing open ground
    Room 2 has all outlet testing open ground.

    The problem is when I popped the open ground ones all open... the ground line is wired correctly to the green bolt. Went out and bought new 3-prong outlets and replaced 2/6 of them and they are still testing open ground, and didn't waste further time replacing other 4.

    Someone recommended GFCI outlet, will this help with the open ground issue? The house was built in 1979 (Oklahoma if you're curious).
    An electrician I’ve worked with does this, regarding open ground.

    On the outlet backside, take a 14-2 wire and use about a 6-8” section of the neutral wire and tap the wire into a neutral screw/ port and tie it into the ground screw.

    That’ll show as normal on your tester afterwards. This works because if you were to open up your electrical panel, you’ll find that the grounds and the neutrals are tied into the same bar.

    Just giving you an option, not my gospel on this topic or some such.


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  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalmado View Post
    The paint was done in 2014 when the house was foreclosed on. But yeah, tons of little work to be done if we want to get top dollar for this house when we decide to sell. I really love the house overall. 3 bed 1 1/2 bath 1250 sq ft in a decently good neighborhood for $52K I figure is a good deal. This isn't our forever home so we figure we should start chipping away at what we can piece by piece.
    That sounds like a great home I would love to have in the city. It would probably require adding another zero to that number though.

    If it was recently painted the old lead paint could still be on the plaster so it's still worthwhile to get it tested.

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rombot View Post
    An electrician I’ve worked with does this, regarding open ground.

    On the outlet backside, take a 14-2 wire and use about a 6-8” section of the neutral wire and tap the wire into a neutral screw/ port and tie it into the ground screw.

    That’ll show as normal on your tester afterwards. This works because if you were to open up your electrical panel, you’ll find that the grounds and the neutrals are tied into the same bar.

    Just giving you an option, not my gospel on this topic or some such.


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    All the outlets at my new house (built 1950) show open ground (and often hot/neutral reversed) when they are pulled out of the wall box - when you put them back into the metal box they read as properly wired.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybar View Post
    That sounds like a great home I would love to have in the city. It would probably require adding another zero to that number though.

    If it was recently painted the old lead paint could still be on the plaster so it's still worthwhile to get it tested.
    My city/county is somewhat lower middle class hence the price. However, prices definitely went up and hopefully they at least stay level for awhile. Some old friends of ours bought a dump on a street with an obvious drug house right across the street and a few streets over there have been a few murders in the last few years. They paid $13k for this absolute turd of a house and sold it last year for $54K. We hadn't been in that house in awhile, but the updates they had done were minimal at best.

    Since I can barely put together a charcoal grill, we retained the handy guy from our previous landlord. He's a good guy who charges fair labor. I'll ask him if he has a way to test the paint. There is a ceiling fan and a wall fan as well. I'd like to have the walls done too so we'll see what we can do.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalmado View Post
    My city/county is somewhat lower middle class hence the price. However, prices definitely went up and hopefully they at least stay level for awhile. Some old friends of ours bought a [b]dump[/] on a street with an obvious drug house right across the street and a few streets over there have been a few murders in the last few years. They paid $13k for this absolute turd of a house and sold it last year for $54K. We hadn't been in that house in awhile, but the updates they had done were minimal at best.

    Since I can barely put together a charcoal grill, we retained the handy guy from our previous landlord. He's a good guy who charges fair labor. I'll ask him if he has a way to test the paint. There is a ceiling fan and a wall fan as well. I'd like to have the walls done too so we'll see what we can do.
    You can get lead test kits from any paint or hardware store, and the retailer should be knowledgeable about their use and help you DIY. If lead is found, be prepared for some heavy remediation (tarped up rooms, special sealed vacuums). A lot of people just paint over the lead and call it a day which is just kicking the can down the road in my opinion. Asbestos and lead removal is costly. I guess lead poisoning and mesothelioma are even more so.

  11. #71
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    Lead testing you might get away with on the cheap, but asbestos can be expensive. For a homeowner, the company I work for will charge over a hundred for just 1 sample. You might be better off with a professional who can gather samples safely and correctly, and who also gets a discount from the local labs because of the volume of business he brings and the lab not having to explain what the results mean.

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  12. #72
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    Honestly if you don't plan on ripping anything out, I wouldn't worry so much about asbestos or lead paint. I would clean the ducting, put in a new filter, throw up some new paint, and if the piping in the basement is wrapped with something (don't poke at it), just grab a bunch of the cheap black foam pipe insulation and tape that up tight. Total cost is a few hundred instead of a few thousand, and it cleans up the house and removes that 1970's smell (kinda). Of course it's safer just replacing everything, but the likelihood that the thousands you'd spend on removal would actually prevent you from getting lead poisoning or cancer are so astronomically small you might as well wear sunscreen at night while you're at it.

  13. #73

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    A blizzard knocked out our power two days ago, and we're still out. I'm gonna need one of those hazmat suits for the imminent fridge cleaning.

  14. #74
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    I'm going to assume it's cold out, so couldn't you have put it outside?

  15. #75

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    Sunny and 45F for the highs, and we didn't have too much in there, so I didn't bother. I probably should have though.

  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roranora View Post
    A blizzard knocked out our power two days ago, and we're still out. I'm gonna need one of those hazmat suits for the imminent fridge cleaning.
    I bought a cheap generator for these scenarios. We had power out for 2 days once and I would run the generator a few hours each day. Mostly to drain the sump and to power the refrigerator/freezer. They aren't that pricey and can save a lot of headaches.

  17. #77
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    Looking into a self draining dehumidifier for our above ground basement. We currently have a wall unit that we have to empty out constantly that is set for 55% humidity and the house is pretty well insulated around the doors with copper weather stripping.

    Whats the general area a wall plug unit can pull from? I am guessing I would need 2 units to maintain my basement, but they're kind of loud.
    How much would running a unit 24/7 hurt your electric bill?

    Trying to weight if its worth the $250 to buy a second plug in unit or invest in a larger whole basement/self draining option.

  18. #78
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    Dehumidifying is typically the biggest energy hog in the conditioning process (it first must bring the energy of the vapor down to condense it which is a big energy phase jump). Do you not have a cooling A/C system for the house? Are you trying to supplement it?

  19. #79
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    The previous owner had two dehumidifiers running in the basement. It was an estate sale, but we trust the inspector and there were no previous issues with flooding or water damage in the basement. The house was vacant for 7 years before us, so maybe thats a part of it as well. She had them running, so we assumed we should as well. We're emptying it at least once a day.

    We do have an AC system in the house, it is Georgia after all. There is a humidity dial next to the thermostat on the ground level that doesn't seem to do anything though. Maybe I should see if anything is turned off on the AC before thinking too much into this.

  20. #80
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    I did not know you were in Georgia, but that does explain it. Well obviously there's more moisture in the air that needs dehumidifying if it is set to 55% and you are still emptying. I can't tell you what's causing excessive humidity in the basement without invasive inspection openings, as-built construction documents, and historical maintenance programs. I'm surprised your HVAC isn't handling it. Maybe it's undersized or doesn't offer dehumidifying capabilities. I can't help you there.

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