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  1. #101
    D. Ring
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    Sylph

    I don't know much that can help, but god damn dude, all I can say is good luck and I really hope this works out in your favor. 'Cause this is some grade-A bullshit.

  2. #102

    Sweaty Dick Punching Enthusiast

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    Quote Originally Posted by Salodin View Post
    This all sounds like you need a lawyer, because everyone else is assuming they can do you over cause you dont have one. I'd keep calling lawyers and see if you can find one who would work pro bono until you get insurance money paid out.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    Exactly this.

  3. #103

    Lawyer up.

  4. #104
    Old Merits
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    Quote Originally Posted by TsingTao View Post
    Exactly this.
    Been trying, but so far no luck. Answer is due Saturday to avoid default judgment.

    Filed a motion to extend my answer deadline yesterday, hope they process it quickly. Soonest any attorney I can find can see me is next Friday.

  5. #105
    Old Merits
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    So no luck on a lawyer, all of them want $10k up front to even look through my evidence to decide if I have a case. They want $250 an hour for work, I make $28. Work doesn't have a legal assistance program, programs in-state have declined me for making too much money, plus they lowered their thresholds given budget cuts by the governor. The last few I talked to even charged for the consultation, so I have burned money with no progress except advisement to talk to a lawyer about bankruptcy, which is also going to cost me money to even get started. I am concerned with how pursuing that might mess with my security clearance, which is required for my job.

    Anyone in this state who works pro-bono does so for ALSC or similar programs, with an income check. You have to be making something like under $30k a year now to qualify.

  6. #106
    Caesar Salad
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    I mean this sincerely, have you looked at gofundme?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  7. #107
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    No, hadn't occurred to me as an option.

    Latest legal recommendation is chapter 5 or 7 bankruptcy, costs about $2k, which is more feasible for me.

  8. #108
    The Shitlord
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    Kharo Hadakkus
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    Rivendare

    have you talked to your bank? like, the one who financed your home. they won't be fond of your property losing value, or your financial prospects. they might be willing to go to bat for you, get a lawyer on your side.

  9. #109
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    Lakshmi
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    Ok, so I have a 7mm nut with a shallow/short head.

    Nbd, I have a 7mm socket.

    But wait! My socket has a sixteenth of an inch taper at the end and thus the actual hexagonal socket cannot touch the shallow bolt head.


    I need a socket that is just hexagonal all the way out to the end, but how the fuck do I filter for that on Amazon?

    Halp!

  10. #110
    Relic Shield
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    Shiva

    Can you get a wrench on it? Might just be easier to go for an adjustable wrench.

  11. #111
    Ridill
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    Gilgamesh

    Not that you want to go buy something, but they do make socket wrenches with a bendable head at the end. Unless the space is tight.

  12. #112
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    I just borrowed one from my FIL. Much manly shame, but the socket was the only problem.

    I still don't know how to describe the issue really, but I think just buying another set of sockets would solve it because I think the other way is the standard. I guess I could shop in person.

  13. #113
    Electric Six groupie
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    Now that it is off just bring the nut to a hardware store and test fit them or ask an employee. I dont think there is a term you are describing. Sorry about the shame

  14. #114
    Ridill
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    Gilgamesh

    So I have spent odd weekends over the last few months repairing the gutters around the house.

    I've installed new guards, refit some older ones that were bent out of shape, tightened some of the mounting pins, and tested the pitch for flow into the downspouts.

    Problem #1: I have one stretch of gutter along the back of my house that needs to be repitched and recaulked. I will need new mounting hardware for this section (about 3-4 feet long), but the test mount I bought does not seem to be the right kind.

    I dont have the long spikes, but it seems to be called a "hidden hanger" mount that clips into the outer lip of the gutter and then is attached by an angled screw into the fascia board. At the end, it looks like it is supposed to clip onto either the back end of the gutter or to a piece of material that slides between the gutter and the singles.

    The problem is that the current mounts are installed in such a way that I would have to take the gutter down instead of simply replacing the hooks, and I don't want to do that. Can I install the new mounts, or will that small section at the end push my gutters down and thus undo my re-pitching?

    Problem #2: Much smaller issue, but I recently cut and installed gutter guards to cover a small corner at the front of my house. It is a section only maybe 2 feet long total, but doesn't look clean underneath from whoever installed the gutters or the roof. There is some excess metal from something under there, and I can't quite tell what it is attached too (roof/gutters). Theres also some once painted wood that is obviously rotting. Could I trim the excess metal and just caulk/paint/epoxy it so that its a clean edge and cut the rotting wood out or sand it down and reseal it with paint and sealant?

  15. #115
    I like to eat food
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    This weekend all three of my garage door openers have decided that they cannot receive signals from the remote or the keypad, but only intermittently.

    Saturday morning my wife left the house early AM without any problems. By about noon I was going to run out to do some errands and the remote we keep at our side door didn't work. Figured it was the battery or something. Went out to the keypad, and the keypad wasn't working either. Replaced the battery in the keypad and still nothing.

    I ended up cutting the padlock on the old side door to the garage to get in. The wired buttons in the garage still worked. Decided I'd try to reprogram the keypad, and got the first door done. Put the code in again and it started to close so I figured I was good. Tried the second door and couldn't get it to reprogram. Tried entering the code for the first door again and nothing happened. Decided to try reprogramming the remote. Got the remote reprogrammed for all three doors, and it worked when I was near the motors, but when I got outside the garage itself it wouldn't work.

    Later on, after my wife got home, I was going to run out to get a new side door since I cut the lock on the old one (it was an old wooden door hanging crooked that didn't properly latch without the padlock). Hit the remote button inside the house just to see what would happen, and the doors opened. Came back with a new door and a new garage door remote, got the door installed, programmed the new remote, all was working.

    Later that night it all stopped working again. Yesterday they didn't work at all, and this morning the same. Anyone have any ideas? It's not the remote, it's not a battery issue, the motors themselves work, the hardwired buttons work. The best I can think of is there is interference with the remote and keypad, but nothing about our house has changed, expect we lost internet Friday night in the Optimum outage. I refuse to believe that all three openers have the same issue at the exact same time unless they are literally programmed to fail x months after they're installed.

    On the plus side, since I replaced that door we can get inside the garage even if this continues to happen or we lose power or something. I had been unlatching one of the doors from the chain on the motor if we were supposed to get a bad storm of some kind.

  16. #116
    Electric Six groupie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirin View Post
    So I have spent odd weekends over the last few months repairing the gutters around the house.

    I've installed new guards, refit some older ones that were bent out of shape, tightened some of the mounting pins, and tested the pitch for flow into the downspouts.

    Problem #1: I have one stretch of gutter along the back of my house that needs to be repitched and recaulked. I will need new mounting hardware for this section (about 3-4 feet long), but the test mount I bought does not seem to be the right kind.

    I dont have the long spikes, but it seems to be called a "hidden hanger" mount that clips into the outer lip of the gutter and then is attached by an angled screw into the fascia board. At the end, it looks like it is supposed to clip onto either the back end of the gutter or to a piece of material that slides between the gutter and the singles.

    The problem is that the current mounts are installed in such a way that I would have to take the gutter down instead of simply replacing the hooks, and I don't want to do that. Can I install the new mounts, or will that small section at the end push my gutters down and thus undo my re-pitching?

    Problem #2: Much smaller issue, but I recently cut and installed gutter guards to cover a small corner at the front of my house. It is a section only maybe 2 feet long total, but doesn't look clean underneath from whoever installed the gutters or the roof. There is some excess metal from something under there, and I can't quite tell what it is attached too (roof/gutters). Theres also some once painted wood that is obviously rotting. Could I trim the excess metal and just caulk/paint/epoxy it so that its a clean edge and cut the rotting wood out or sand it down and reseal it with paint and sealant?
    Problem 1
    Can you move the remaining gutter out of the way while you install that new mounting hardware? How long is each runner - you might have to just remove one segment or extend the repair to the nearest splice.

    Problem 2
    Hard to diagnose without photos. That excess metal could be anything, maybe a shim or old bracket? That might warrant an up-close inspection which would require removing that section of gutter. It's tough to say how deep the rot goes but be sure to remove all loose material or cut it out and replace that portion (called a "dutchman repair"). If you're just going to remove the rotted portion be sure to seal it with a primer and exterior grade paint. I don't recommend filling it with sealant/caulk, it is notorious for having a very short lifespan especially if purchased from hardware stores (barring most silicones and some polyurethanes).

  17. #117
    I'll change yer fuckin rate you derivative piece of shit
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    Kept the original tile and tub but redid the flooring, trim, light fixtures and wallpaper in our hall bathroom. Before/after


    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  18. #118

    Sweaty Dick Punching Enthusiast

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    i like that tile man.

  19. #119
    I'll change yer fuckin rate you derivative piece of shit
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    Quote Originally Posted by mallister View Post
    i like that tile man.
    My father in law and I laid it, had never done anything like that before but I got pretty good at it.


    It was old linoleum before

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  20. #120
    The Anti Miz
    The Anti Miz of the House of Weave

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    Look at you tiling all the way to the toilet flange

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