Gad's Garage - Vehicle Maintenance & Repair Thread

[Gadritan]

Having chimed in quite regularly regarding these topics, I felt it might be nice to have a thread dedicated to it.

BG has quite a few very knowledgeable mechanics and DIY members that can offer legitimate advice. Trying to obtain the correct information online to protect yourself can be difficult at best as there are an extrodanary number of variables involved in complex repairs. It can also make you look like an asshole if you get a blanket repair suggestion online that doesn't truly match your situation. There are certain people you don't want to piss off. Your doctor, your tattoo artist, and your mechanic. Don't be that person.

Personally, I've worked as a manager for various aftermarket shops as well as Chrysler and Subaru. I'm also a licensed state inspector for North Carolina in addition to years of turning wrenches with some of the best in the business. Tires are my specific field of expertise as I was fortunate enough to obtain some of the highest level of training in that field.

Vehicle expenses can have an enormous impact on our daily lives, and improper repairs and dangerous vehicle conditions can cost lives. Those are the primary reasons I'm so passionate about the subject.

So please post here for any questions related to the cost of parts, warranty application, etc.

It's impossible to diagnose a vehicle online, but our mechanic community will gladly offer suggestions, though it should ultimately be addressed by a professional. Remember, shoddy work not only puts you in danger, but others on the road as well.

If you feel a situation needs professional intervention please PM me as I'll be more than happy to contact dealers and/or shops directly on your behalf. Not everyone is fortunate enough to have a friend or family member in the industry, and that can sometimes be the difference between being taken advantage of or not.

Cheers.

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[Malithar]

I'll start the thread off with a weak sauce question. I've never really learned how to change my oil, so I've always gotten it changed by a place. I have a 2014 Chevy Sonic with under 40,000 miles on it. I bought it in 2016 with 27,000 miles, so that gives an idea of how little I drive. It's more location based, I drive plenty, I'm just super close to just about everywhere I need to go.

I've been told different things each time I get it changed, so I never really know what to follow. A local mechanic (who retired/went out of business) told me they would only change it once a year with how little I drive. Other places have been telling me I need to change it every 3 months and I need to get the synthetic oil. Where/How can I tell what I actually need so I'm not duped into blowing money on the expensive stuff more often than I need to?

[synistar]

The mechanic knows best. A drive thru lube place puts the sticker for 3 months when most engines are good for 6 months/10k miles from what manuals say for maintenance schedules.

I drive 2 vehicles less than 4k miles/yr each without pandemic conditions. I change my oil once a year. Hell the BMW dealer doesn't even bother asking me to change 3/6 months since they know how little I drive that car.

[Gadritan]

I'll start the thread off with a weak sauce question. I've never really learned how to change my oil, so I've always gotten it changed by a place. I have a 2014 Chevy Sonic with under 40,000 miles on it. I bought it in 2016 with 27,000 miles, so that gives an idea of how little I drive. It's more location based, I drive plenty, I'm just super close to just about everywhere I need to go.

I've been told different things each time I get it changed, so I never really know what to follow. A local mechanic (who retired/went out of business) told me they would only change it once a year with how little I drive. Other places have been telling me I need to change it every 3 months and I need to get the synthetic oil. Where/How can I tell what I actually need so I'm not duped into blowing money on the expensive stuff more often than I need to?

Full synthetic once a year. Conventional/blend every 6 months.

5w-30 (viscosity for the Sonic) is available in a blend/conventional, but for short trips I'd highly recommend sticking with full synthetic. Driving short distances doesn't allow the engine to run at operating temperature long enough to burn off as many impurities, and full synthetic contains the least.

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[Gadritan]

The mechanic knows best. A drive thru lube place puts the sticker for 3 months when most engines are good for 6 months/10k miles from what manuals say for maintenance schedules.

Careful here. Most engines DO NOT allow for a 10,000 mile oil change currently. Even those that do should be changed every 5,000 once you exceed 100k miles. Any engine will begin to burn excessive amounts of oil once it has enough age/mileage.

My 2013 Toyota Camry, for example, is recommended every 10k per the manufacturer. It currently has 190k miles on it and burns through about a quart every 3-4k. It's driven almost exclusively on the highway. I've changed it every 5,000 since it hit 60k because I'm taking it to 500k+ at least and wanted to proactively reduce the amount of sludge build up.

Manufacturer recommended intervals are not a one size fits all schedule. Age, environment, driving habits, previous repairs, etc, all factor into this. The service intervals aren't even typically listed beyond 150,000 because they tend to consider that the life of the vehicle. Even then, most scheduled maintenance will be cut in half mileage wise once you reach 100k+ even per their recommendation. I.e. the first coolant flush may be recommended at 100k, but every 50k going forward beyond that.

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[Gadritan]

And PSA: brake fluid should be changed every 36 months or 30,000 miles. It's not always listed as a scheduled maintenance so the maintenance cost is listed as being cheaper. It's a very strange thing and I've always been baffled as to why so many disregard it as a scheduled maintenance.

It absorbs moisture slowly over time, and once you hit about 5% moisture content it can begin to "bubble," within the hoses if it reaches a high enough temperature causing the hose to collapse.

For those going for the long shot (200k+) I'd also recommend changing the hoses themselves every 100k or 10 years. Those things go through hell between heating/cooling and being extended while turning.

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[Cyn]

I don'y need advice so much as I need the will and determination to do the 100k maintenance on my Outback myself instead of paying $700+ more to have a shop do it.

[Gadritan]

I don'y need advice so much as I need the will and determination to do the 100k maintenance on my Outback myself instead of paying $700+ more to have a shop do it.

100k? It should be 30/60/90/120, with 60/120 etc being the big ones. The 120 would be spark plugs, fuel system treatment, front and rear differential fluid, brake fluid, alignment/balance, coolant flush and inspecting engine/cabin filter for replacement off the top off my head.

30k (90k) should have been brake fluid, alignment/balance, fuel system treatment, and inspecting the filters.

Tbh it should run about $1,000 to $1,200 out the door depending on the area for the 120.

To which are you referring?



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[Zeb]

I'll start the thread off with a weak sauce question. I've never really learned how to change my oil, so I've always gotten it changed by a place. I have a 2014 Chevy Sonic with under 40,000 miles on it. I bought it in 2016 with 27,000 miles, so that gives an idea of how little I drive. It's more location based, I drive plenty, I'm just super close to just about everywhere I need to go.

I've been told different things each time I get it changed, so I never really know what to follow. A local mechanic (who retired/went out of business) told me they would only change it once a year with how little I drive. Other places have been telling me I need to change it every 3 months and I need to get the synthetic oil. Where/How can I tell what I actually need so I'm not duped into blowing money on the expensive stuff more often than I need to?

Full synthetic once a year. Conventional/blend every 6 months.

5w-30 (viscosity for the Sonic) is available in a blend/conventional, but for short trips I'd highly recommend sticking with full synthetic. Driving short distances doesn't allow the engine to run at operating temperature long enough to burn off as many impurities, and full synthetic contains the least.

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I'm a service manager in a shop that does tires/lube. Gad's pretty spot on. I would add to this that everyone should just check their oil dipstick and tire pressure like once a month. If you take a cross country trip you're most likely going to get more miles in that service interval. Oil looks like it's starting to get dirty? Change it. Also, 99% of the dirt in your oil comes from air intake. So change your engine air filter when it gets dirty. Check this at every oil change at a minimum.

[Gadritan]

Oh, and Cyn, watch the head gasket on that thing too. It's supposed to be inspected every 80k for replacement as they tend to leak.

And don't freak out. I'm not talking blown head gasket. They're just notorious for leaking oil pretty early on.

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[Gadritan]

Check this at every oil change at a minimum.

To add to this, spring for a K&N. They're more efficient and many shops offer a recharge service on them as well for folks that aren't comfortable performing that maintenance on it.

They're available for cabin filters for most vehicles as well.

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