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  1. #41
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    Quote Originally Posted by archibaldcrane View Post
    Thing is, you can do well on the 2010s now if there are some left on lots. The 2011s just came out and this is generally the worst time to buy the new models. That being said, that $1,000 incentive is pretty good considering they just came out.

    I've driven a Nissan Sentra since '03 and I like it just fine, the Versa is actually a step down from that even but I don't have any first-hand experience with it. It's going to be one of the cheapest 4-door hatchbacks you can find though, 2 grand lower than even the Fiesta.
    ya wayyy ass back in the day my parents had a nissan minivan that ran really well. The fact it's the cheapest hatchback is actually what scares me about it, because then I think what is it that's making it cheaper than the rest?


    [edit] so looking at their site, if you get a 2010 versa you get $1,500 back instead of $1,000 for 2011. Makes it even more tempting.

  2. #42
    I'll change yer fuckin rate you derivative piece of shit
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ksandra View Post
    [edit] so looking at their site, if you get a 2010 versa you get $1,500 back instead of $1,000 for 2011. Makes it even more tempting.
    I'd be surprised if you can find one left on the lot though.

  3. #43
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    Quote Originally Posted by archibaldcrane View Post
    I'd be surprised if you can find one left on the lot though.
    touche

  4. #44
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    I don't know how practical this advice is given what you said earlier about being recently married, but skipping the whole "financing" stage of car ownership and just buying outright saves you quite a bit of money. Car dealerships make a large fraction of their profits off financing, which is why it's also a good idea to not let on that you've got the cash to buy the car outright until the price is finalized.

    Ownership vs. Leasing is another argument altogether, but now is a bad enough time to be buying used that I'd seriously consider continuing leasing if I was you. It's like this:
    $300 per month to lease a (relatively) new * 24 months in two years = $7200

    Amount you're willing to pay for a used car = $13500 (lets say you finance 90% of it at 5% APR, so maybe $14000-14500)
    Amount your current used car will be worth as a trade-in in 2 years = $7000 <-- honestly, kind of optimistic. This is how much "Good" three-year-old Rabbits (1 year used, 2 years use) are worth right now as trade-ins. If you sell it yourself, you gain $1k but lose in annoyance and ad prices.

    So, you've lost $7500, as opposed to the $7200 you lose by leasing, along with much more financial stress/obligation/debt. The Used car market is too inflated right now to be reasonable. It also depends what your car schedule is. Are you someone who wants to buy a car, use it for 2 years, and trade it in for a new model? Are you someone who buys a car and drives it until the wheels fall off? What's your MO? If you're the first type, buying New right now may make sense because the modest difference in price between Used and New may be made up when you go to sell your (at least 1 year newer) car. If you're the second type, you should just look and make sure that the car is mechanically sound and known to be reliable.

  5. #45
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Byrthnoth View Post
    I don't know how practical this advice is given what you said earlier about being recently married, but skipping the whole "financing" stage of car ownership and just buying outright saves you quite a bit of money. Car dealerships make a large fraction of their profits off financing, which is why it's also a good idea to not let on that you've got the cash to buy the car outright until the price is finalized.

    Ownership vs. Leasing is another argument altogether, but now is a bad enough time to be buying used that I'd seriously consider continuing leasing if I was you. It's like this:
    $300 per month to lease a (relatively) new * 24 months in two years = $7200

    Amount you're willing to pay for a used car = $13500 (lets say you finance 90% of it at 5% APR, so maybe $14000-14500)
    Amount your current used car will be worth as a trade-in in 2 years = $7000 <-- honestly, kind of optimistic. This is how much "Good" three-year-old Rabbits (1 year used, 2 years use) are worth right now as trade-ins. If you sell it yourself, you gain $1k but lose in annoyance and ad prices.

    So, you've lost $7500, as opposed to the $7200 you lose by leasing, along with much more financial stress/obligation/debt. The Used car market is too inflated right now to be reasonable. It also depends what your car schedule is. Are you someone who wants to buy a car, use it for 2 years, and trade it in for a new model? Are you someone who buys a car and drives it until the wheels fall off? What's your MO? If you're the first type, buying New right now may make sense because the modest difference in price between Used and New may be made up when you go to sell your (at least 1 year newer) car. If you're the second type, you should just look and make sure that the car is mechanically sound and known to be reliable.
    ty for the advice. On your two types, I'm the second type. Initially, I had planned to buy my bug when I first leased it. Until I realized as much as I fucking love that car it is just too impractical for babies. So whatever car I choose I want it to be something that's going to last forever because I'd probably keep it at least 15 years before trading it in for a new one (obviously depending on how well the car lasts/doesn't get totaled/etc.) I get very attached to mah cars so ya it's not something I want to keep giving up every 4 years.

    I see what you're saying though that if I lease then later on buy I'd be paying about the same price. Only downside to that is it's such a long period (lease 4 years pay another 4 years). And you can't pay on principle on a lease.

    I just don't want to straight lease anymore either cause it feels like my money is going to thin air. Part of the reason I wanted a used, is that if I were to buy my bug it would be $12k for me to keep paying it. But if I don't, all that money spent was basically rent. If I however buy a used car for about the same price it feels like I traded-in my bug instead of just wasting my money. (ya ya it's not really wasting as I got 4 years out of it, it's just the feeling of it).

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantrag View Post
    Sorry to hijack, but what's the best way to go about this? For a new car that is.
    I want to ask the same thing ^

    My 3-mo old chevy cobolt got totalled a week ago, so looking for another car preferrably another '10 cobolt since I really really liked it...

  7. #47
    I'll change yer fuckin rate you derivative piece of shit
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    You should learn how to spell the name of the new car you really like.

  8. #48
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    So question on these truecar values. More I think about it, the more I want to go in and test drive the new versa. once I'm there though, I'd like to know, on a truecar value is that basically the end? So like whatever quote I get out of there I should stick to, or should I expect to cut it down further, or have to pay a little above it?


    Don't worry, not saying I'll get it, but it's good to know when I walk in what I should be doing.


    [edit] also it seems like for the versa a sunroof is under a package deal. ie. I can get an automatic for about 14k with no sunroof, or I can get one for 17k with a sunroof/xmradio/bluetoothsomethingsomething/gpsetc.

    None of the extra features I want outside the sunroof. Is this something that is set in stone or is it something that they have hidden ones without that I can somehow get?

  9. #49
    I'll change yer fuckin rate you derivative piece of shit
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    In my opinion you should first offer $500-$1000 lower than the truecar "great" price. The dealer will say that's impossible, you act disappointed and leave after giving him your phone number, and you proceed from there.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Byrthnoth View Post
    I don't know how practical this advice is given what you said earlier about being recently married, but skipping the whole "financing" stage of car ownership and just buying outright saves you quite a bit of money. Car dealerships make a large fraction of their profits off financing, which is why it's also a good idea to not let on that you've got the cash to buy the car outright until the price is finalized.

    Ownership vs. Leasing is another argument altogether, but now is a bad enough time to be buying used that I'd seriously consider continuing leasing if I was you. It's like this:
    $300 per month to lease a (relatively) new * 24 months in two years = $7200

    Amount you're willing to pay for a used car = $13500 (lets say you finance 90% of it at 5% APR, so maybe $14000-14500)
    Amount your current used car will be worth as a trade-in in 2 years = $7000 <-- honestly, kind of optimistic. This is how much "Good" three-year-old Rabbits (1 year used, 2 years use) are worth right now as trade-ins. If you sell it yourself, you gain $1k but lose in annoyance and ad prices.

    So, you've lost $7500, as opposed to the $7200 you lose by leasing, along with much more financial stress/obligation/debt. The Used car market is too inflated right now to be reasonable. It also depends what your car schedule is. Are you someone who wants to buy a car, use it for 2 years, and trade it in for a new model? Are you someone who buys a car and drives it until the wheels fall off? What's your MO? If you're the first type, buying New right now may make sense because the modest difference in price between Used and New may be made up when you go to sell your (at least 1 year newer) car. If you're the second type, you should just look and make sure that the car is mechanically sound and known to be reliable.
    While most of this is true and pretty good advice, even if I did touch on a bit of this a page back. One thing is incorrect that I need to point out. The interest is not calculated as a direct percentage. You're saying that if you financed 13,500 you'd end up paying 14,000 or 14,500 after the total of payments (if I'm reading your post correct). Interest is not calculated like that at all. It's calculated on the remaining balance of the loan in monthly intervals. Realistically, if you get a 5 year loan, the first 2 1/2 - 3 years, you are just paying interest. You could pay the car note for a year or two, you still owe as much the "selling price" of the car. The first two years you are really only paying interest and you don't start chipping away at the principal until much later in the loan. Just thought I'd clear that up.

  11. #51
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    So, I am officially a complete newb when it comes to car buying.

    Something I didn't know:

    So I wanted to see where the lowest versa dealership was, so I had to submit my name/email to true car to actually see the dealership. This also means it was sent to the dealership. I expected a reply but was just going to go into the dealership on the weekend anyway.

    So this guy gives me the 17k price with the sunroof, and I'm like I want something closer to the 14k. I get to talking to this guy and explain I have a lease on a bug that's about to run up, and wanted a rabbit, but it's too hard to find a 4 door, yadda yadda yadda.

    Anyway, he starts asking me about trading in my bug early, asking about it's features, and I was all confused. And then it hit me. Basically what he was getting at is that at the end of my lease if I were to buy my car it would be 12k for me. So what he could do is have me "buy" the car for them so they can sell it at a profit, and give me a discount for the trade in.

    I never knew I could do that lol.

    SO NOW MILITANT. What should I expect out of that? >.>;

    I'm so paranoid about getting the short end of the stick.

  12. #52
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    Anything else you're considering besides the Versa? Here's some extra info from Consumer Reports.

    - Nissan Versa Hatchback 1.8L scored a 67/100 (relatively high for the price) / Base MSRP ranges from $9,900-16,900
    Nissan's small Versa has a very roomy rear seat, comfortable ride, and well-finished interior. It's available as a hatchback or sedan. The tall roofline allows easy access. The relatively refined 1.8-liter engine isn't that powerful. A less expensive 1.6-liter is also available. The six-speed manual is a bit clunky, but the optional CVT and conventional automatic perform well. Fuel economy isn't impressive for a subcompact, however. The ride is relatively comfortable and quiet, but handling isn't particularly agile. Curtain air bags are standard. ESC is available on all trim lines except those with the 1.6-liter engine. Reliability has been average.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by archibaldcrane View Post
    You should learn how to spell the name of the new car you really like.
    Oh wow lol... Knew something was off when I was typing that.


    and dammit, went to another dealership. Pretty much all the 2010 cobalts with automatic are all sold out. Curses for never learning how to drive a stick

  14. #54
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caiyuo View Post
    Anything else you're considering besides the Versa? Here's some extra info from Consumer Reports.

    - Nissan Versa Hatchback 1.8L scored a 67/100 (relatively high for the price) / Base MSRP ranges from $9,900-16,900
    :/ only part of that really bugs me is the reliability part. I'm not in to have a power car. but I wonder what they mean when they say average reliability.

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zhais View Post
    Oh wow lol... Knew something was off when I was typing that.


    and dammit, went to another dealership. Pretty much all the 2010 cobalts with automatic are all sold out. Curses for never learning how to drive a stick
    Stick >>>>>>>>>>>> Auto.... Just learn how to do it, shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to get the basics down.

  16. #56
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    Eh, my opinion of it is that there's enough craziness on the roads the way it is. I'd rather have one less distraction so I can concentrate on avoiding the morons.

    Found an '09 cobalt that has all the same exact features. Guess I'm getting a used car this time around

  17. #57
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    I find driving stick helps me keep my mind on the road, actually. Driving automatic my mind always seems to wander.

  18. #58
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantrag View Post
    Stick >>>>>>>>>>>> Auto.... Just learn how to do it, shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to get the basics down.
    this is a terrible terrible lie. I tried for a week on my husband's car back in the day when I was car shopping (that ended up with the bug). I couldn't get even close to getting the hang of it.

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ksandra View Post
    this is a terrible terrible lie. I tried for a week on my husband's car back in the day when I was car shopping (that ended up with the bug). I couldn't get even close to getting the hang of it.
    Easiest way to think of it is of two discs on platters. The engine is 1 platter and the Clutch/Transmission is another, The goal is to get them to marry up as smoothly as possible, which means keeping a high enough rev count on the engine while not mashing the clutch mindlessly. If you can't get it in a while after that, I'd suggest staying away from anything that's not an econo car >_>.

  20. #60
    alsohawks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ksandra View Post
    :/ only part of that really bugs me is the reliability part. I'm not in to have a power car. but I wonder what they mean when they say average reliability.
    It seems the reliability marks are due in part to their customer survey and not necessarily represented by any particular thing as the 2010 modem only got "average" marks in "climate system" and "squeaks & rattles" with better marks everywhere else. (they only rate on a scale of better-to-worse in comparison to the average overall rating for cars and not necessarily "really good" and "really bad")

    While looking at that I noticed customer satisfaction for the Versa is fairly low, though, scoring a 54 on a scale of 1-100, which was below the median of 66 for Small Cars. For what it's worth, a handful of other models are higher up, notably the VW Golf TDI, the Honda Fit and the Mazda3 Hatchback.

    Quote Originally Posted by aurik View Post
    I find driving stick helps me keep my mind on the road, actually. Driving automatic my mind always seems to wander.
    ^ I feel much more involved and focused while driving a stick.

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