How low can I haggle this? (yet another car thread weee)

[Anakron]

I think I either need to just get myself into another lease to buy at a later date.

If you're pretty sure you're gonna buy it eventually, don't lease, as you'll be paying more interest. Assuming a residual of ~50%, you'll be paying for 50% of the car over 36 months + interest on both portions of the car (the residual portion, and the depreciation portion). Compare that with paying 100% of the car over 60 months at 0.0% or 0.9% APR, and your monthly payments won't be much higher, but you'd definitely save money at the end (effective lease interest rates are almost always higher than the finance counterpart).

[archibaldcrane]

something weird happened with that fit or something. Your page to the dealership no longer pulls up (I could before),

and there's no longer a link to it from the website I showed...wtf?

Both work for me.

Try again: http://www.gtautopros.com/

[Ksandra]

Both work for me.

Try again: http://www.gtautopros.com/

hmm ya it works now, weird, I'll send them an email~

If you're pretty sure you're gonna buy it eventually, don't lease, as you'll be paying more interest. Assuming a residual of ~50%, you'll be paying for 50% of the car over 36 months + interest on both portions of the car (the residual portion, and the depreciation portion). Compare that with paying 100% of the car over 60 months at 0.0% or 0.9% APR, and your monthly payments won't be much higher, but you'd definitely save money at the end (effective lease interest rates are almost always higher than the finance counterpart).

ya I Know it all comes down to monthly payments though, I am terrible at math but I'd have to figure out do I save more money getting a 4 year old car and getting to use it for 11~ years, vs. leasing to buying a new car and getting to use it for 15~ years.


[edit] looking at the site you can see what the car looked like before repairs, if they are trusted at fixing things might be good but orz that worries me about possible issues on the engine.

http://www.gtautopros.com/uploads/09FIT1.jpg

http://www.gtautopros.com/uploads/09FIT2.jpg

[Korietsu]

That's a big no on that car. That car was totaled, just by looking at the wheel rotors there. Car wont ever drive the same as it did new and it's structurally weak. Looks like other various parts were damaged as well.

[zoobernut]

Yeah any time an impact could have possibly had any effect on the frame it is gone forever don't touch it. When I was a kid we were on a family trip to visit my sister and we got in a pretty serious accident on the freeway, we were driving a Range Rover so we were all fine but the accident bent the frame and the doors never quite worked the same again one was loose and the other was tight. Even though visually you couldn't see anything wrong with it.

[Ksandra]

Ya that's what I figured. Strike out again.

[Sigi]

bout to say- that Fit had the axles bent- that's a DO NOT WANT situation. Any time you're looking for a vehicle- people have said this earlier: Get a carfax report. Get it scoped out by a mechanic, preferably ASE. As far as haggling I find having a partner for good cop/bad cop works best- that way you are less pressured.

As far as people worrying about learning stick: It's easy. The way I learned is listen to the engine. If you hear it start to roar, you go up a gear. If it's trying to sputter, you go down a gear. If you're at a stop sign on a hill- have it in 1st gear and balance the gas and the clutch.
Easy. (I taught myself in one night- after my dad pissed me off trying to teach me how.)