OC'ed 7950 is faster than OC'ed 660Ti (more so after 12.11 drivers), and currently comes with three free games so is much better value. $200 might be a bit optimistic, although tbh I have no idea how good black friday sales are.
OC'ed 7950 is faster than OC'ed 660Ti (more so after 12.11 drivers), and currently comes with three free games so is much better value. $200 might be a bit optimistic, although tbh I have no idea how good black friday sales are.
By OC I mean doing it yourself, there's no reason not to when getting 1050MHz is just moving a bar, and 1150MHz is just upping vcore a bit.
Alright question time.
I'm intending to buy a PS3 Friday, but currently lack an HDTV, or even a good TV. I do however have my monitor, which has HDMI ports. But, it has no speakers, and my current speakers are a similar jack to a pair of headphones, which this monitor lacks a slot for. How would I go about using my PS3 with my Monitor, while getting sound, in the month or so til I can get a TV?
What I do is plug both the HDMI cable and the red/white/yellow connection that comes with the PS3 in. Then I use an adapter to convert the red and white RCA jacks into a 3.5mm connection that my PC speakers can use. If this sounds right, something like this should work: http://www.cablewholesale.com/specs/...30s1-01400.htm
From there you go into the PS3's settings and change the audio source to RCA or composite, I forget the wording it uses.
They're super tiny, and I imagine shipping is dirt-cheap, but I'm not even sure where you'd find it locally. Seems too specific for Radioshack and even then they have crazy mark-up. I believe this is the same thing from Monoprice if the shipping changes at all: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
Oh, I'm not really worried about shipping price unless it costs unusually high amounts, it's more there's no one home during the day now, and we don't really know our neighbors too well lol. I just didn't want to send too many things (Like said PS3) too my sister's house as her building buzzer is broken. No biggie though!
Thanks a ton! Saves me some money to spend on games now that I can delay getting a TV.
Also in regards to my other question, was the ugly ass shadows something that amd has often or was it maybe just my card and/or series that had it? Like in skyrim the shadows were basically just big squares mashed together with no smoothness to them (might be able to dig up a screen shot if you need more clarification)
One third the price.
And at $.75 with shipping, who even cares if it gets stolen?
^ that's male-to-female, though. If it's PC speakers with a male connector they'd need to buy another adapter to switch it to female.
Dumb question I know. If I were to OC myself (GFs dad that is, I don't know how lulz) should I get a factory OCed one or just a normal stock clock (would it make a difference)? Also which brand would you perfer? My 5870 was a Gigabyte with the "ultra durable" cooler Also while I'm at it I may look for an aftermarket cooler to OC my i7-930, any ideas?
Sometimes factory OC's have higher binned chips, more often than not they just cost more though. PCB and cooler design are more important factors, custom PCBs can sometimes benefit (extreme) OCing and non-reference coolers are better and quieter allowing you to OC further before temps are an issue. Sapphire and Gigabyte make good non-reference coolers, Asus DC2 as well but it's triple slot.
How far? Hyper 212 EVO for $26 can take you to 3.8GHz, big air coolers like Phanteks/Noctua could let you reach 4-4.2GHz depending on the CPU/MB (have to make sure RAM isn't too tall as well, those fins can prevent big air coolers from fitting on).
Could anyone link me to a site to download Photoshop? I don't ever torrent things and when I have I have had friends walk me through doing it. Sorry I do not have the knowledge to do this on my own, I'm just afraid I will end up downloading a virus. I just need to get used to using it for an upcoming job at my University and I can't currently afford it.
Linking to things like that is generally against the rules here, from what I can remember. Often though, colleges would have student versions of software packages that students could buy for a small fraction of their normal cost. You can look into that if you want to keep it legit and also stay cheap.
Grab the 30 day trial from Adobe?
Once you start your job, you can talk to them about work at home rights (which PS usually includes) or faculty/staff software.
Or, depending on what you're actually doing with it, just get something free like Paint.net or the GIMP. The exact buttons might not be the same, but the principles are.
Not exactly tech related, but in regards to the video card... how long do you think the 3 game deal when buying a 7950 on newegg will last? Want the price to drop on black friday but also want the game bundle lol
Edit: Nvm Free game offers expire March 31, 2013 or when supply of Game Keys is exhausted, whichever occurs first.
Edit 2: Thanks for the help btw, gonna grab this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814125414 and probably that 26$ CPU cooler, 3.8 should be plenty I think.
I set up a Vista-7 dual boot on separate partitions and recently trashed the Vista one since I didn't have any use for it, this left the 7 partition near the ass-end of the drive, basically it looks like
[----------------------------Unallocated 480gb----------------------------][-------C: 100gb-------][--E: 13gb--]
(E: being the factory image partition that came with the PC originally)
I'm curious to know if there's any reason to move C: back to the head of the drive, I remember something about the drive reading faster from the end since it's closer to the edge of the disk where more data would be accessible in a single rotation than if it were reading from the center.
edit: Also is there a "proper" way to safely expand an active partition? I've been using 3p software for all this since doing it with windows disk management is so limiting. It always leads to hiccups tho nothing I haven't been able to resolve, just curious.
The edge of the platter is faster than the middle, because the edge of a rotating disc is moving faster than the middle so more of the disc passes under the arm in a set time which means faster read/writes. If the visual depiction is accurate and the C: drive is at the "end" (aka the middle) then it would be worthwhile putting it back to the "start" (outer edge) because it will increase read/write speeds, for me on my 2TB WD Black the difference is around 20% faster.