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  1. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caiyuo View Post
    Would I be screwed after the fact? The replacement inverter isn't apart of the metal bracket so I'd have to re-use that screw somehow afterward.
    Nah. You could probably find a similar enough screw somewhere. Or leave it out/take one from a less important place - even if only until you find a replacement. Those little screws strip really easily, I know from experience, as does probably anyone else who fiddles with this stuff.

  2. #662
    alsohawks

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    Thanks, I was actually able to get it out and back in after the swap luckily.

    And that I proverbially shit my proverbial pants because now nothing displays at all as opposed to the extremely low light display I was seeing before. I realize I could've left something unattached or something came unattached while putting it back together, but is this indicative of anything else? To be specific, the display is black, doesn't flash on boot or anything like that from before, yet I can remote into it from another computer and see what is normally displayed from there. Going to go back in and see if I can find anything while trying not to throw it out the window.

  3. #663
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    If you aren't getting a picture at all, I'd double check the connections and try rotating through video modes (internal/external/mirrored). You're going from having a flakey backlight to not having a picture being sent to the screen, so barring something getting broken in the meantime, it's probably just something that came loose.

  4. #664
    alsohawks

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    Yeah tried that initially with the video modes on a lark with no luck. Went through the motions all over again and found nothing loose, but got fed up tinkering last night. Going to try the old inverter just to see if I can get the old symptom back and hope I didn't introduce a new problem because it seems like the inverter had a few revisions since the original and the replacement seem somewhat different. Having to wait another week and throw down another $15 would actually be the most ideal of the options I'm looking at right now.

  5. #665
    alsohawks

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    Update (sorry isiolia lol) but I checked each individually again to see if they were even working and found that both the new and old inverters were actually displaying the same super dim picture, I probably just couldn't see it last night since it's so hard to make out. Does the dim picture mean the inverters work, yet are blown, or is the dim picture the result of these not working at all, in effect meaning there's a possibility that a different inverter of a correct revision may work? Like, is this what I'd be seeing if there was no inverter in place as well? I was careful handling the new and old inverters and have a static wrist strap so I think it's really unlikely I shorted the new one out before I ever even tested it, so I'm trying to determine how exactly this works to see what I should try or replace.

  6. #666
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caiyuo View Post
    Update (sorry isiolia lol) but I checked each individually again to see if they were even working and found that both the new and old inverters were actually displaying the same super dim picture, I probably just couldn't see it last night since it's so hard to make out. Does the dim picture mean the inverters work, yet are blown, or is the dim picture the result of these not working at all? I was careful handling the new and old inverters and have a static wrist strap so I think it's really unlikely I shorted the new one out before I ever even tested it, so I'm trying to determine how exactly this works to see what I should try or replace.
    The faint picture you're seeing is the LCD itself still working just fine. Unlike CRT or Plasma screens though, LCDs don't produce light themselves.

    The inverter converts/regulates power to the backlight bulb(s). The bulbs can go too, but won't turn on for a second like you were mentioning. The more common thing is that a component on the inverter board goes bad, which will often result in that.

    Having it dim like that means there's still a failure in the backlight system. Possibly the replacement inverter was DOA? I've only really swapped them around with known-good parts from other laptops I had.

  7. #667
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    Hello! Need some networking help. I have a Motorola Surfboard SB5100 modem that is DOCSIS 2.0. I've been experiencing random reboots (T4 timeout according to modem logs) and it gets stuck processing the upstream channel which causes my internet to go out. I've tried 2 different modems, different cables, and different connections to the cable line. I have the Xfinity performance package (15 down/3 up). I talked to customer support and they said I have DOCSIS 3.0 speeds but a DOCSIS 2.0 modem, and so this could be causing the problem. I read online that a 3.0 wouldn't really make a difference speed wise for my package, but it could improve stability (my issue). Does anyone know if this is legit? Will getting a 3.0 modem possibly remedy this? I know there are many other possible factors that may be the culprit, but my main question is about the DOCSIS 2.0/3.0 discrepancy.

  8. #668
    alsohawks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Isiolia View Post
    The faint picture you're seeing is the LCD itself still working just fine. Unlike CRT or Plasma screens though, LCDs don't produce light themselves.

    The inverter converts/regulates power to the backlight bulb(s). The bulbs can go too, but won't turn on for a second like you were mentioning. The more common thing is that a component on the inverter board goes bad, which will often result in that.

    Having it dim like that means there's still a failure in the backlight system. Possibly the replacement inverter was DOA? I've only really swapped them around with known-good parts from other laptops I had.
    Glad you mentioned that because I realize that for all of the tests I did after changing the inverter, there hasn't been any initial flash, it's just been completely dim the entire time which is now both for the original and new inverters. I distinctly remember that initial flash when powering on the first time though; is it likely the backlight bulb could've gone out between those times while still displaying both of these symptoms? If not I'll try a different inverter and just cross my fingers because I'd really like to salvage this laptop somehow even if it meant having to deal with the backlight bulb. I'm willing to entertain the new inverter being bad since it was $11 from ebay and that was really why I was curious about the specifics.

    Thanks as always. Needs a RQT:tech MVP status

    Quote Originally Posted by Eragon View Post
    Hello! Need some networking help. I have a Motorola Surfboard SB5100 modem that is DOCSIS 2.0. I've been experiencing random reboots (T4 timeout according to modem logs) and it gets stuck processing the upstream channel which causes my internet to go out. I've tried 2 different modems, different cables, and different connections to the cable line. I have the Xfinity performance package (15 down/3 up). I talked to customer support and they said I have DOCSIS 3.0 speeds but a DOCSIS 2.0 modem, and so this could be causing the problem. I read online that a 3.0 wouldn't really make a difference speed wise for my package, but it could improve stability (my issue). Does anyone know if this is legit? Will getting a 3.0 modem possibly remedy this? I know there are many other possible factors that may be the culprit, but my main question is about the DOCSIS 2.0/3.0 discrepancy.
    I'm refraining from answering yet in case someone else knows for certain, but do you rent your modem by chance? Is there any chance they'd provide you with a DOCSIS 3 modem if so? If that were the case I'd say go for it and I've heard great things about upgrading to a D3 modem, but I can't speak to your specific issue.

  9. #669
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    I do not rent it and I probably could, but it would probably be cheaper just to buy it, if I do in fact have to.

  10. #670
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    I'm looking to replace my no-name 4:3 19" POS that I have had forever. Without some major distrubances to the feng shui I'm going to be looking at 23/24" max (leaning towards 23" unless there is a stellar improvement between the 2 for not much cash?). I'm looking to spend about £170-£200 (so dont link me to newegg mail-in offers etc. please). Is this even feasible? My current monitor is quite terrible as a primary so anything would be an improvement, from very quick initial searching I saw this. Good/bad/terrible?

    Been about 10 years since I bought a monitor and then i was just looking for the cheapest flatscreen around lol

    Thanks for any help!

  11. #671
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pendulum View Post
    Without some major distrubances to the feng shui I'm going to be looking at 23/24" max (leaning towards 23" unless there is a stellar improvement between the 2 for not much cash?).
    You're more likely to find 1920x1200 resolution (16:10) 24" monitors than you are 23".

    The monitor you linked to has promise - I haven't used one personally, but despite being a relatively cheap monitor, it has an IPS panel.

  12. #672
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    So, I'm going to be buying either an ASUS G74SX-A1, or an MSI GT780R-057US. Among some of the differences, I noticed that although both sport the nvidia GTX560m, the ASUS has 3GB of VRAM, and the MSI has 1.5GB. From what I've seen, they benchmark pretty close, but I plan on keeping this thing around for several years.

    Should I be concerned about the lower video ram in the MSI? Because, pretty much every other spec on the MSI is either equal to or greater than what the ASUS offers.

  13. #673
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    So... another question for my laptop. I keep getting this "Charger adapter cannot be determined" error message when plugging in my laptop, today. Yesterday it worked fine, so I have a sneaking suspicion that it doesn't have to do with the motherboard port being loose or having to be replaced. I have an iGo universal laptop charging kit, using correct tip etc, have had it for like 2 weeks~ and it was working perfectly fine. Like I said, it worked fine yesterday, today after work turned on laptop and keep getting that error. Restarted etc.

  14. #674
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    i just reinstalled ffxi on my computer, was able to get all the updates completed, i understand there would be some type of lag/delay due to the concentration of logging on and changes SE made with the transfers going on, I just can't seem to figure out what's going on though, my fps is beyond poor, even before i left the game a year ago the pc never acted this way, I cant seem to find out whats up, might it be an update my driver got? Nvidia GeForce GTX590, I'm really at a loss for not seeing the problem

  15. #675
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentleroy View Post
    So... another question for my laptop. I keep getting this "Charger adapter cannot be determined" error message when plugging in my laptop, today. Yesterday it worked fine, so I have a sneaking suspicion that it doesn't have to do with the motherboard port being loose or having to be replaced. I have an iGo universal laptop charging kit, using correct tip etc, have had it for like 2 weeks~ and it was working perfectly fine. Like I said, it worked fine yesterday, today after work turned on laptop and keep getting that error. Restarted etc.
    I never trust universal chargers, because crap like this always seems to happen. There's usually a way to disable the message in the BiOS and just continue booting, did you find anything like that?

    Quote Originally Posted by Yimoa View Post
    i just reinstalled ffxi on my computer, was able to get all the updates completed, i understand there would be some type of lag/delay due to the concentration of logging on and changes SE made with the transfers going on, I just can't seem to figure out what's going on though, my fps is beyond poor, even before i left the game a year ago the pc never acted this way, I cant seem to find out whats up, might it be an update my driver got? Nvidia GeForce GTX590, I'm really at a loss for not seeing the problem
    I had to use windower to adjust a lot of the graphics settings, but I'm on a GTX470. From what I understand FFXI just doesn't get along with some of the new cards. Make sure you have the correct version of POL and "let application decide" for all ffxi options in the nvidia control panel.

  16. #676
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    thanks, i still am having some issues though with the response time for login and such, it's never been this bad, i got alot of stuff moved to my external that i neglected to move but i'm still having a hard time believing it's on SE's side, I've sat at the downloading data screen to get on my character for 30mins, menus don't load right away like before as well, maybe having clear internet is my problem haha..

  17. #677
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    nvm

  18. #678
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    I have an OEM copy of Windows 7 installed on an SSD. I have recently acquired new parts (CPU, motherboard, etc.) that I will be placing the SSD into. Will this require reactivation beyond re-entering the key or maybe doing a phone activation?

  19. #679
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenyx View Post
    I have an OEM copy of Windows 7 installed on an SSD. I have recently acquired new parts (CPU, motherboard, etc.) that I will be placing the SSD into. Will this require reactivation beyond re-entering the key or maybe doing a phone activation?
    Different CPU/mobo basically means you are installing on a different PC. Technically, according to the license, not only will it not activate, but you shouldn't be given an activation code for it. Practically, you can call MS and try to get them to give you one anyway, plenty of people have had success with it.

    You should also be planning a full reinstall if you aren't, not just moving the drive (unless the parts are identical replacements).

  20. #680
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cephius View Post
    I never trust universal chargers, because crap like this always seems to happen. There's usually a way to disable the message in the BiOS and just continue booting, did you find anything like that?
    Well with the booting thing, you just hit F1 and it continues booting anyways. My problem is that it won't charge (not that big of an issue, since it won't discharge at least), and that it operates slowly. Gonna see if any of the other laptop chargers hanging around cause the same error so I can determine if it's the charger or the motherboard. Do you think changing the bios or w/e would allow it to work? Or would it simply disable the message from popping up?

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