An actual game![]()
An actual game![]()
1) Yup. If it's just for a few hours or so it doesn't matter, but if the laptop stays on plugged PSU for several days or even longer you should take the battery out. Otherwise it will get discharged and charged again by a few % constantly (natural discharge, crappy load control etc) and that kills the cells over time.
2) Nope. Best example: the laptop of my parents has been running without its battery for years, no problems.
Only thing that i'd recommend: insert the battery every few months, charge it full and then remove it again.
For laptop batteries, the discharge/recharge isn't the prime concern. Because of the chemistry and the protection circuit, the battery will discharge a little all the time, whether in the laptop or not. And recharging the battery 5% ten times or 50% once makes no difference to the lifetime recharge cycles (300-500 full recharges for the life of most batteries).
The main reason you might want to remove the battery though is if your laptop runs hot, over 60º C. High heat and a full charge will cause the battery chemistry to degrade faster. If your laptop usually runs around 45-50º C, then the degradation will be barely different than if you removed the battery.
If you are going to remove the battery, it is actually best to let it run down to about 40%, then remove it and store in a cool, dry place. A battery stored with a full charge with see about 20% capacity loss over a year, whereas a battery stored at 40% charge will only see about 4% capacity loss.
It will depend on the age of your battery, it's mAh, the specific lithium salt used, average temperature... well, alot of factors. On laptops there are also factors that we cannot control such as charge rate and maximum charge. Ideally, a lower charge rate will create less heat so would be better, but most people are impatient and want quicker recharging. Also for people charging phones or PDAs, those wireless charging mats are less efficient and give off about 20% of the electricity as heat when compared to dedicated wired chargers. Most chargers for LiIon batteries go to 4.2V, but if you could set it to 3.9V you would get only about an 80% charge, but would increase the lifetime of your battery. Never fully charging or discharging will put less stress on the battery.
So, if you rarely use the battery, 40% charge stored in a cool, dry place is best. They can be stored in a refrigerator, but you have to be extra careful to seal them well to avoid condensation, so I would not recommend that. The increased saved capacity of 2% at that temperature isn't worth the added risk to me.
Most laptop batteries should have an mAh over 3000, so you can easily go 3-6 months before recharging. You might want to recalibrate the battery gauge at this point. Fully charge the battery first. Let it rest a couple hours to dissipate any charging heat. In advanced power settings, set the computer to hibernate at critical battery action, then set critical battery level at 5%. Run computer until it hibernates, then let it stay in hibernation for a couple of hours. Fully recharge again and the battery gauge should be accurate for it's current true capacity.
For devices that you can't remove batteries from, try to keep them from running too hot. Turn them off whenever you're not using them.
I'd remove my battery from my MacBook Pro since I rarely unplug it but Apple's retarded magnet power cord loses connection at random.
Been having an issue with my Windows 7 PC for the past week. Basically, it restarts (has froze a couple times, mainly a restart) whenever I let it idle. Maybe it is a coincidence, but I haven't noticed this issue when I am actively doing things on it.
I typically don't leave my PC on unless I am using it, so it is hard to tell when this problem started. I did update my Video Card driver a couple weeks back, not sure if that is related. I did a system restore taking it back to late January, but I am still having the issue. Assuming that rolled back the driver also. Next reboot I got a notification that there was a new driver update for my video card, which I skipped this time. I've ran virus, and spyware checks all returning nothing. When I booted into safe mode for system restore, left it sit for maybe 10 minutes and it did freeze. After system restore, figured I'd run a chkdsk. I let this go while watching tv, and it got to Part 4 before randomly rebooting.
Looking for some advice/direction on where to go or look before really getting into it. Was planning on trying another chkdsk and hitting my keyboard every so often thinking that may prevent a reboot. Again, not even sure if idling is my issue. Fairly sure its not my PSU or overheating, as I have yet to see this issue happen when I am actively using it. Would think I'd crash playing TF2 or Batman or actively doing something, but I could be wrong.
If Check Disk fails, next idea was to create a system repair disk. Open to any suggestions. Can make this into a thread if it turns into more then a few ideas.
I plan on purchasing an SSD, for probably about 70gigs worth of games (So I guess a 120gb would be good?), and I don't really have a clue as far as what to buy goes. I've never read any on these, so I'm unsure which manufacturer is the most reliable. Could anyone shed some light for me, please?
Intel is the most reliable by far, I think after that it's Samsung then Crucial/Corsair then OCZ etc
But tbh unless you are keep sensitive data (photos, game saves, work documents) on the SSD with no backup then you don't need to get the most reliable and expensive (Intel), I see Crucial M4/Corsair Force 3 recommended and used a lot.
120GB is more than enough for OS + games, don't bother buying one just for games unless you have a lot of money to spare, and if you do then you could just go for the faster OCZ drives.
It's not even that big of an improvement to put games on an SSD, most of the time. MMOs would probably be an exception, as they're constantly accessing unexpected shit.
Thanks for the responses, appreciate it!
Jojimbo: Yeah, nothing really too important will be placed on it. I've just horrid experiences with WD traditional hard drives, and I would be rather annoyed if I bought an SSD and that crapped out as well within a few months. Intel really is expensive in comparison, so I'll take a look at the others mentioned as well.
Kerb: I was planning on putting Windows, Swtor, HoN, and BF3 on it. My loading times for those have been pretty long lately (ie, ~2mins to load a new map in bf3 after the end of a round). Also plan on upgrading once the new processors / cards hit the market in a few months, so I figure this would be a nice start for now.
Do you have a 3Gbps or 6Gpbs SATA port? The newer SSDs needs to a 6 to fully utilize its speed. I've been very happy with my Kingston HyperX 120GB SSD.
I'm actually unsure about that, or what the motherboard is in my current PC. How would I go about checking that? Processor is a core2 duo e8400, so I believe socket LGA775... quite a bit old. Planning on going to an i5 ivybridge when it hits, so I'm sure the motherboard I purchase at that time will have 6.
Yeah, I'd wait until Ivybridge if you want a SSD.
Can I safely delete my Windows.old folder? I've had windows 7 for over a year now.
If you have what you need off it, sure.
Mom's netbook has died and I have to re-install XP. There is no CD Drive so i'll be forced to use an external hard-drive. I'm wondering if there are any versions of XP that are meant for netbooks? Also, any tips for installing it from a external hdr would be greatly appreciated =)
Any of you guys get warranties on your tablets?
I'm debating between Squaretrade and Worth Ave Group for my ipad3. With discounts, ST will cost me $89 for 2year with accidental, and WAG will cost $63 but it also adds theft to the warranty. I have a ST warranty on a laptop, but this WAG is so much cheaper and I only saw one thread on it on macrumors with good reviews.
Should I pony up for the company I already know and do business with or save $30?