3.
Upgrade to a recommended newer build, especially if you are running SP1 or v24 final (05/21/08 ). Newer builds contain fixes for bugs. At the time of writing, the latest official build is v.24 SP1. SP1 has a LOT of issues. It will spontaneously brick the Asus WL500W router. These issues are fixed with some of the later builds. However, sometimes new builds have new bugs. New builds are BETA and not "finished" yet. Although you use them at your own risk these builds have been pretty thoroughly tested and work well, certainly better than SP1. Browse the forums and see what others are saying.
Prior to upgrading, understand how builds work by reading note 4, below, and ALWAYS follow the wiki install for your router when initially flashing it from oem firmware!
These are the recommended builds:
Brainslayer 14929. This build has worked fine in most configurations and should be used in most cases.
Here is a link to the NEWD BS 14929 builds:
K24 builds:
ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/BrainSla...4929/broadcom/
K26 builds (
see below to determine if you need k24 or k26...screwing this up will brick your router)
If you have installed 14929 and are having problems,
ESPECIALLY IF REPEATER MODE ISN'T WORKING for you, try dropping back to EKO 12548[/b] .
This is a link to these the new EKO builds. Click on the link and open the folder with the same number as the recommended build you wish to use:
EKO:
ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/V24_TNG/
Here is the direct link to the newer BRAINSLAYER builds:
Brainslayer:
ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/BrainSlayer-V24-preSP2/
Be sure to understand whether you need a VINTage driver, NEWD driver OR NEWD2/K26 BEFORE you upgrade. Some newly supported routers can ONLY use K26 builds, but don't use K26 unless you have to.
If you HAVE to use k26 (which you can tell by whether when you originally flashed the router, you were required to use a build with K26 in the name) here is the link to the k26 builds. Putting these on a router that isn't supported WILL brick it.
If you NEED a k26 build, here is the link to the recommended build.
ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/BrainSla.../broadcom_K26/
Use one of the recommended builds mentioned here NOT 14896, 13064 (Build date 10/10/09) or SP1, regardless of what the router database recommends!
Note that if you need VINT for your router, (see note 4 on this) you must use EKO builds since new BS builds do not include the VINT driver. Build 13491 is a recommended VINT build. You can also try 15230 but
some are reporting problems with the 15230 build on routers that need VINT. Since build 12548, a decision was made not to overlap BS and Eko builds. So, if BS already creates a generic standard build, for example, EKO will NOT be compiling that build in his build folders. Additional differences between EKO and BS are explained in the thread linked in note 18.
Due to the exploit that is discussed in the following link, if you wish to use older builds,
you should modify your startup script according to the instructions. Otherwise, you should use one of the latest builds. See the development announcements here:
http://dd-wrt.com/dd-wrtv3/
If you do not wish to have to patch the firewall script, use one of the above recommended builds.
You should not put SP1 or 13064 (Build date 10/10/09) on your router....use one of the builds recommended here. Although not as bad, it seems that quite a few users are also having some problems with 14896.
You can get Beta Builds at Downloads, Other, Eko, TNG_24, and then go to the folder number that matches the recommended build number. There is a direct link below
Sometimes, a wireless encryption type doesn't work, so you might have to try another one if one is not working. I believe most if not all encryption are working with the later recommended builds.
WPA2-AES is secure and working well.
Each build has a thread on the forum. These new builds have worked out well, and have many changes that improve dd-wrt compatibility with Wireless N/Dual Radio setups. If you need wireless N speed, or have a dual radio definitely check out the build threads and see what others are saying.
SECURITY settings often do NOT work properly with v.24SP1. SP1 also does not forward DHCP properly in bridged mode.
Builds that are newer than the recommended ones listed here are not necessarily better. If you see a newer folder and think you will try that, even though it's not one of the builds recommended in this announcement or Redhawk's, be sure you have a jtag cable and a place to attach it.
Some people are jumping ahead to the newer NEWD-2 builds (builds with NEWD-2 in the name) even though they are not recommended builds and without reading the build threads that are available for each new release.
Do NOT put NEWD-2 on your router without reading the build threads and knowing what you are doing. Noobs are best advised to stay away from Newd2. We are not seeing any significant benefit from the Newd2 driver.
NEWD-2 will brick many routers. See these threads for guidance:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=54711
http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=55625
And this wiki article:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php...on_some_models
Some newer routers MUST use K2.6 builds. If you originally had to flash a build with k2.6 in the name, you likely will ALWAYS have to flash a k2.6 build. K2.6 builds always use the Newd-2 driver. See note 4, below for further info on this.
Make sure your firewalls and virus protection are disabled prior to upgrading. Some people have had problems accessing their router due to not disabling their computer security.
Remember that newer is not necessarilly better!!!
The
router database has recommended some less stable builds, including SP1 and 13064 (10/10/09) build. I suggest using the builds that are recommended here or in Redhawk's announcement above, rather than the ones in the router database. SP1 is full of bugs, and while 13064 is not nearly as bad, some are reporting connection issues fairly regularly. Sometimes the router database also has had the wrong build type. The router database is being worked on improve the recommendations.
Do not skip over reading the install wiki for your router just because you got the files from the router database. You need to KNOW what to do with those files.
The wiki usually has the right builds for particular routers. READ THE WIKI!