Gundam Discussion - Twilight Axis

[Mrbeansman]

[Edelweiss]

Some more TC02 Phantom Gundam:

Spoiler: show

Notice the Jovian-style cat slit mono-eye:

Katoki applies his style to the Phantom:

>Get Phantom Gundam in December instead of the V2 or the Sazabi.
>maximum top lel

[Serra]

Added to my private warehouse, woo! Now to wait for the Unite Sword gets in stock in August..

[Mrbeansman]

So I have been wanting to do light painting on my HGs nothing huge just correcting the miss colored parts and fill in panel lines. Whats the best route to go with this?

[Serra]

So, I'm a recent convert to the amazingness of airbrushing. I started with spray cans and hand-painting when I just had a few minor parts that I would need to paint, but looking back, I wish I had picked up an airbrush back then. At first, I avoided airbrushing because I thought I'd screw up with thinning my paints, mixing paints, and generally break the airbrush, but once you get the hang of it, it's not bad at all. Especially if you want to eventually do custom painting, the amount of flexibility it offers can't be beat. And some places sell airbrush paints that don't need to be thinned, so that issue is kinda moot. Spray cans, to me, just waste so much paint and put on really thick coats. With hand-painting, I'm just not skilled enough to do large areas well enough that it's not noticeable. I can do small parts, but when I was working on the Dom, I was shifting more and more to the mask and airbrush approach. I still use spray cans for priming though, just because..

If you have to do any masking, stick with either the tamiya brand masking tape or regular scotch tape. I've never had good luck with the blue 3m painter tape (pulled off paint, paint seeped, in, etc) -- at least not with models.

As far as panel lining, I have a few Gundam panel lining markers and a few real touch markers. Honestly though, I'm not a big fan of panel lines so I generally avoid them if I can.. I've just seen too many kits where people overdid the panel lines and it just turned me off to panel lining. Also, in my opinion, grey looks infinitely better on a white kit than doing black panel lines.

Of course, I defer to Edelweiss if he contradicts anything I say~

[Edelweiss]

So, I'm a recent convert to the amazingness of airbrushing. I started with spray cans and hand-painting when I just had a few minor parts that I would need to paint, but looking back, I wish I had picked up an airbrush back then. At first, I avoided airbrushing because I thought I'd screw up with thinning my paints, mixing paints, and generally break the airbrush, but once you get the hang of it, it's not bad at all. Especially if you want to eventually do custom painting, the amount of flexibility it offers can't be beat. And some places sell airbrush paints that don't need to be thinned, so that issue is kinda moot. Spray cans, to me, just waste so much paint and put on really thick coats. With hand-painting, I'm just not skilled enough to do large areas well enough that it's not noticeable. I can do small parts, but when I was working on the Dom, I was shifting more and more to the mask and airbrush approach. I still use spray cans for priming though, just because..

If you have to do any masking, stick with either the tamiya brand masking tape or regular scotch tape. I've never had good luck with the blue 3m painter tape (pulled off paint, paint seeped, in, etc) -- at least not with models.

As far as panel lining, I have a few Gundam panel lining markers and a few real touch markers. Honestly though, I'm not a big fan of panel lines so I generally avoid them if I can.. I've just seen too many kits where people overdid the panel lines and it just turned me off to panel lining. Also, in my opinion, grey looks infinitely better on a white kit than doing black panel lines.

Of course, I defer to Edelweiss if he contradicts anything I say~

Airbrushing is probably the ideal method of painting for sure (though obviously habitation issues, and a proper aerosol particulates-filtering mask and having a proper ventiliation booth set up are the qualifiers). Several paint manufacturers are actually selling pre-thinned (sort of like a milky consistency) paints now for airbrushing; Tamiya, GSI Creos and Vallejo come to mind. Unfortunately, spray cans for primer will probably remain a thing (unless you decant the contents into a jar). The big things with airbrushing are having to account for humidity and temperature (most paints are formulated to be airbrushed with about 40% humidity at roughly room temperature). Most (but not all) people prefer to add a couple drops of retarding agent to allow the paint to level (less needed/necessary for glosses).

With that in mind, it IS possible to brush and achieve no traces of brush marks: as with all things it pretty much comes down to thinning (depends on what color and brand, due to pigment grain) and multiple coats (although adding a small amount of paint-appropriate retarder will give a brushed coat time to properly level out). Using an appropriately sized brush helps too (in other words, don't paint a large piece with a tiny ass brush, 1/2 inch or 1 inch brushes would be appropriate most likely).

As for masking, straight lines probably mean sticking to modelling-intended masking tape (like Tamiya); 3M's blue painter's tape is unfortunately intended for household uses. Organic or "camo" (non-digital) will probably mean using either masking fluid (Mr. Masking Sol or Mig's Abeltung) or a reusable putty that has enough tack to adhere to the surface without tearing the paint off.

Panel lines are probably an area of personal preference. I admit i'm pretty partial to subtle lining (usually done by taking the primary color of the part and adding in a couple drops of black). There's a number of ways to do it too; Serra mentioned the markers already. There's also the "wash" method over a glossy clear coat (used as a protective layer); you'll apply the very thinned paint (usually an enamel) with an appropriately sized brush, although I guess anything works as long as you put a drop or two of retarder (to give yourself more time to clean up excess). The wash will flow through the panel line(s), leaving you to wipe up any excess with a cotton swab or paper towel (maybe with a dab of thinner depending on how long the wash has been exposed to air).

So I have been wanting to do light painting on my HGs nothing huge just correcting the miss colored parts and fill in panel lines. Whats the best route to go with this?

I would honestly advise buying a set of smaller size brushes (probably a mix of fine, flat and rounds), those "economy" brushes are total shit outside of drybrushing for weathering purposes.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam87014.htm
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam87048.htm <- I strongly recommend this for panel lines and other tight/fine detaillings; this type of bristle is stiff but still flexible, important qualities for that kind of precision work where a limp (when wet) bristle makes shit harder.
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/abs/abs7285.htm
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/abs/abs016-3ps.htm

When you decide to do full painting, getting a #4-6 flat should cover your needs for pretty much every MG.

[Mrbeansman]

So Im completely lost on how to make colors correctly which has always been whats kept me from painting before. Is there a good guide out there for this cause I still remember trying to this in my early teens on the old Wing series models and failing horribly.

On a more amazing note got my HG Mesala yesterday. Was the first kit I put together with my god hands. I can now say that building with god hands and without them are two entirely different experiences, They really are that good.

[Edelweiss]

Well, there used to be a color translation transposed right onto the color guide from the manuals, but that effort ceased like 5-6 years ago. Worst case is you might have to ask some people here or on /toy/ for a color comparison (I do have around 200 different paints and a good eye I think, so yeah).

But, no need to worry. The secret to color mixing is a couple rules of thumb: first, it is far easier to make a color darker than it is to make it lighter (in other words, 2-3 drops of black vs. 5-6 drops of white to lighten). You also have to take into account that for non-whites a color will darken subtly (probably most visible on orange, red, and green) upon drying and curing.

The paint mixing process is pretty much minimizing waste really. To that end, I guess disposable graduated dropper/pipette/syringe are definitely the best things to transfer into jars. Aside from being as efficient as possible in not wasting paint, they also give you some degree of accuracy in refining your ratios to perfect the color, or have it availible for future reference. Maybe look into a powered paint mixer for preparing the paints for transfer, and then blending the mixed paint (http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/bad/bad121.htm works well); it'll do the job faster and more thoroughly than hand stirring.

If you wanted to paint that Messala using safe acryllics (these are water-based):
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof414269.htm (with a few drops of blue)
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof404046.htm (with a couple drops of blue and maybe a drop of a dark/medium gray to get it precise)
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof414263.htm
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof414116.htm
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof414122.htm
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof414290.htm (too bad this is backordered, could just substitute Model Masters Flat Black I guess)

Monoeye pink is sort of what color makers term "salmon pink".. but you can easily make your own by adding small amounts of red to white, until satisfied.

[Edelweiss]

Cagalli is wedding!

She's also probably crying. Major manface going on too.



Thank Hiraiface!

[Insanecyclone]

https://twitter.com/TatsuHobby/statu...99389788299264

Double reward points event is now in effect (1st of July 2013 to 8th of July 2013). Only for in stock items. Get to your cart!

Aw shit

[Insanecyclone]

[Edelweiss]

The most shocking thing about that was the fucking Rig Shokew showing up. Also that they're doing a HG 1/144 Victory AND V2 too I guess.

I guess this should be fun, if nothing else (aside from old MS getting new animation). Maybe it'll give V, G, and X more draws; it would be great to see interest in those reignited, since that probably translates to their trend of being neglected turning around. At least it isn't another SEED series!

Spoiler: show

Can we just get that MG V2 already? A Gottrlatan and Rig Contio would be wonderful too. I mean christ on a blazing bike, the HGUC V2 is a thing before the MG? Nigga please.

...Well, they still have November.

[Insanecyclone]

[Edelweiss]

MSG: The Origin and G-Reko are tenative for 2014-2015, both animated works.

GBF is already getting a much more warm reception than AGE, for whatever its worth.

[Serra]

Giant Freedom.. mmmmmmm...
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mWKWXhj7yA...21168414_n.jpg

[Edelweiss]

Not enough beam spam (also I think there might be a smudge or scratch on the cockpit hatch; unrealistic!).

Master Grade release schedule:

July: Geara Doga (CCA Ver.)
August: RX-78-2 3.0
September: Strike Rouge Remaster with Phoenix Equipment
October: Prototype Wing Zero
November: ???
December: Sazabi Ver. Ka. (probably)

[Edelweiss]

If anyone is going to Anime Expo in L.A., do us all a solid and ask at the Bandai/Sunrise panel about what their plans might be for the second century of the U.C. Or just ask what their (relative) near plans are for the North American market as far as Gundam is concerned (and the whole Funimation/Sentai deal status).

Since i'm in the mid-Atlantic region now, I might go to Otakon if Bandai/Sunrise will be there again this year, and i'd like to have some questions from the regulars (that they'd like answered). As far as i'm concerned, if there's a Hobby Division representative there, they're gonna get V2 and 1/100 HG lined politely. I'd also ask if the strong North American sales are really forcing a re-evaluation (like most of us have thought of the developments in the past year) of the region. And i'd definitely inquire about if they still think Hathaway's Flash is how they would like to follow up Unicorn (eventually, since G-Reko is probably an OVA..), or would they maybe just prefer to tackle F90-Crossbone: Ghost or something.

[Edelweiss]

Marker panel linefags; extra thin versions of the black/gray/brown Gundam Markers:

http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM301P/Sup
http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM302P/Sup
http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM303P/Sup

[Serra]

Saaaaaad.... Broke a piece... Sent gginfinite an email, but 6-8 weeks to get it in is going to kill me ; ;

Are there any other options to order replacement parts -- or is any better that gginfinite? I saw genteikits as well, and they seem like they might be faster..

Edit: Read that blue fin is taking care of the policy in the US for Bandai, so sent them an email too now. So sad...

[Mrbeansman]

Holy shit on the markup on markers from places that aren't HLJ. Single markers are going for 10 dollars in some places, just under what i paid for a base set of 6 on HLJ.