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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acevalefor View Post
    You are correct Brill. It is the 75 series. Should fit the hold-downs perfectly. The 98 has the same battery tray as the 2001 so unless there is something weird like reversed cables or air filter placement issues, it would be the same battery.

    AAA Oregon-Idaho doesn't allow the drivers the discretion to not run the member test. You run the test every time all the way through unless the battery is fried or there is some major mechanical problem preventing the test. Or the member flat out declines the test. If you do not run the test and provide a test code to dispatch when closing the call, your reason better be a good one or the call only gets half pay. Different clubs allow different levels of autonomy to the drivers though.
    Good lord man I wish our Club took that aggressive a stance on doing both tests. That would eliminate a lot of our battery related problems.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brill Weave View Post
    Good lord man I wish our Club took that aggressive a stance on doing both tests. That would eliminate a lot of our battery related problems.
    We had the highest warranty rate in the country. The only other AAA affiliate that had higher warranty returns was Australia. So to try to bring that down, AAA executive level came down hard on AAA Oregon-Idaho. It worked pretty well, but it made it almost impossible for the drivers to make any commission because each call was taking close to an hour between all the tests and the paperwork. Gotta clear 12 calls in a day to start earning your commission. Barely got 8-10 calls on average after the change. It got to where drivers were scrambling to steal Out-Of-Gas and Flat Tire calls from other drivers' areas just because they were quick 10 minute calls. Now it's not so bad because dispatch has backed off the drivers and we have a little bit of room for not doing the full member test, but we still have to have all our ducks in a row with a valid reason.

    By the way, anyone that ever calls AAA for a dead battery on a Dodge Stratus, remember that these are one of the worst cars to get to the battery and the driver will hate you if you argue with him about having to take the tire off to get to it.

  3. #23
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    Yeah I've got my little booklet for the labor intensive installs. Those things are a bitch. I can say that since we've switched over to the East Penn batteries the warranties have dropped.

  4. #24
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    To OP it's not your alternator, that has nothing to do with starting the car. If it wouldn't take a jump start, assuming the battery cables are connected tightly and properly, and the jump start was hooked up correctly, then it's probably not the battery either. When you try to start it (when doing the jump start) did it sound the engine was trying to start, or did nothing happen?

  5. #25
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    I work for AutoZone (loss prevention, not in the store thank god), and they don't do installs on those Chrysler's with the battery in the fender well. Talk about some angry customers.

    We recently dropped the extended warranty on all of our batteries except the Gold line, the rest just have 90 day, 1 year, 2 year free replacement and no pro-rating at all. We also jacked up the prices on all batteries about 10-15%. I'm sure that will definitely have customers coming in by the droves >.>

  6. #26
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    Maybe I wasn't clear. The AAA guy did do a test and print out a readout and it says my battery has 0 cranking amps despire being rated for 600 cranking amps. So I definitely have to replace.

    To OP it's not your alternator, that has nothing to do with starting the car. If it wouldn't take a jump start, assuming the battery cables are connected tightly and properly, and the jump start was hooked up correctly, then it's probably not the battery either. When you try to start it (when doing the jump start) did it sound the engine was trying to start, or did nothing happen?
    Furionstormrage: When I had the cables connected and turned the key nothing at all happened. No cranking or anything. I figured the alternator had nothing to do with started but it was just a hunch. You know? The AAA guy was just trying to get my car started and get the hell out of there and he told me about his how he makes commission so I wasn't trying to keep him there longer than I felt it was worth.

  7. #27
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    0 Cranking Amps = completely and utterly dead battery. If it wouldn't even crank with a jump, perhaps there is corrosion on the wires like others suggested. That battery had almost no chance of holding even the slightest charge, but if there was a good connection on the jumper cables the tow truck should have got your engine to turn over. It would probably run really shitty and die as soon as you pulled the cables, but it should have at least got the starter to click over. Replace battery (hopefully under warranty) and take a pic of your wires for us to see if there's corrosion.

  8. #28
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    There is no corrosion on the wires I replaced the battery and the engine cranked for a second then stopped. Now it makes this really distinct starting sound kinda like Whomp from Mario 64. I'm gonna put some gas in it in a bit and try again. I ran the tank empty before I stopped driving it.

  9. #29
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    And walmart replaced the battery no problem. It had a month left on the warranty. The girl behind the counter said they last about a year which is scary but at least replacing them is painless enough.

  10. #30
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    Let us know what happens after you put gas in it. Hopefully it's just out of gas or what's left in the tank has gone bad.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orden View Post
    This is a late update but I tried to get my car jumped to no avail. I called AAA and my battery doesn't crank but even with a jump it doesn't start. I'm gonna get it checked out by a buddy sometimes this weekend hopefully. It's probably the alternator. Maybe. I don't know about cars. My battery is under warranty at walmart so I can good with that. When the batter was hooked up to the AAA truck everything worked except the actual starting itself, including the alarm which I don''t have the remote to.
    Aftermarket alarm? While I understand in the OP you state everything worked fine prior to this issue, Saturn S-series were notorious for weird electrical things happening from aftermarket alarms, remote start, etc. While I worked for Saturn as a service adviser, it wasn't uncommon to have cars towed in for no start when it was an aftermarket alarm/remote causing the problem. Same for platinum spark plugs. For whatever reason, those would cause mass misfiring and occasional no start or hard start. Obviously this wouldn't be the case with your specific issue.

    Also, if you are going to drive this car for awhile, always check the oil. Those 1.9l engines consume oil regardless of how you drive or how many miles you drive. Most would consume an average of 1 qt. of oil every 1k-1.5k miles.

  12. #32
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    Car started! It just need some quick-start. I just had a transcendental experience driving a manual again.

  13. #33
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    Good, glad to hear it!

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derock View Post
    Terrible way to up your post count buddy.
    That is correct!

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