BG Biking: WTB entry level road bike <$1,000

[Tyche]

For the longest time, I've wanted to bike to work. Well, I finally got a job close enough to do so. I've never biked (but those who remember way back when, I was a pretty competitive road runner), so I would probably get more than simply casual use out of it. I've looked at a couple of bikes already, the Canondale Caad 8 and the Specialized Allez. Anyone have any other suggestions or tips? I know, "get a good lock". Preferably a better one than the one I bought for Creamsoda, as his was still stolen .

[Penthesilea]

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...1_series/1_5/#

What I'm riding, I know it's outside of your budget. But go to a reputable bike shop. Place I went to charged me 100$ to get fitted for my bike. That 100$ was taken off the cost of the bike though.

[Howie Roary]

fittings are so amazing, it's honestly like riding a new bike as compared to before

I had some knee irritation and fingertip numbness because the seat was not the correct height and placement (forwards or back)

nothing better than a smooth machine, find a place that includes a proper fitting (should take minimum 1 hour, there are different grades of fittings)

if not, factor in the cost of a fitting (don't spend more than $150 all in)

Cannondale caad series are great bikes, the trek one above is nice too. Check out Kona, not everyone knows about them.

[Howie Roary]

check out the Felt S32 or the Ridley Phaeton 105 TT on this page http://www.wheelsofbloor.com/bike-specials/
both under $1000 down from $2000 and $1700 respectively. These guys are in Toronto though, but they have crazy deals all the time.

[Tyche]

Do the bikes typically not include pedals? Or is that just how they're pictured? So other ancillary costs associated with a bike are fitting/sizing, pedals....anything else?

[Meresgi]

Holy hell a grand? Sorry, I just never knew bikes were that costly..though I guess these are high end models. I too am looking to start biking to work and since I only live about 1.5 miles away and it's an easy ride with bike lanes, I guess i'll go look at Wal-Mart or Target haha.

[Cream Soda]

I just never knew bikes were that costly..though I guess these are high end models.

Those are just entry level, really. When I get my settlement from the bus company (who hit me in January), if I get enough money, I plan on getting a 3,500-5,000 Pinarello

I guess i'll go look at Wal-Mart or Target haha.

Never do this. You're better off buying a vintage road bike for 150ish on craigslist. A vintage 1970's bike will last forever if you treat it right. A walmart/target bike, if you're lucky, will last you a year, tops (and that's because you're not riding much; if you did the riding I do, it'd be lucky to last a month)

[Nightbreed]

Do the bikes typically not include pedals? Or is that just how they're pictured? So other ancillary costs associated with a bike are fitting/sizing, pedals....anything else?

Most will include pedals but many people ride clipless these days which are bought separately.

Only additional costs when I bought mine were a pump, spare tube, water bottle holder and helmet.

[Cream Soda]

Make sure your pump has a metal barrel. The plastic ones never last long. (and get one with a psi gauge)

[Senji]

Do the bikes typically not include pedals? Or is that just how they're pictured? So other ancillary costs associated with a bike are fitting/sizing, pedals....anything else?

They don't include pedals, but the bike shop with typically give you a pair of basic ones if you ask. Most cyclists have a certain kind/brand of "clipless" pedals that your cycling shoes click into, so they don't even bother to include them to keep costs down. If you have some knee problems gonna want some that a little more float (less locked in rigid feel) but they are fine even if you don't have problems. They might offer you some that have one "snap in" side and one regular flat side for regular sneaker use, but they are bulky and cheap. Once you get practice clipping in and out they will just be annoying and you'll wish you had normal clipless cycling pedals. Pedals are easy to swap back and forth if the need really arises with an allen wrench. (Like you could ride with flat pedals to work during week and practice clipless onweekends until you got them down.)

An all inclusive bike fitting is kinda dumb for someone new that wants to get into it. UNLESS they will give you free refit appointment after a month or two. Generally your muscles will tighten/strengthen, tendons will stretch, etc and it will change your entire fit + what you find comfortable. Yes, a rough fit is needed as far as frame size, stem length, starting saddle height, etc to get you going but that would be extremely shitty if the shop won't help you out there.

The bikes you picked out are both good, at lower price points they will have similar if not the same components. However frames like Cannondale caad series will command more money/be more desirable as they are basically older race tech that is at a cheaper price point now just because they have newer racing frames as opposed to where they make a cheap frame for a certain price point for entry level riders. Stay away from the "comfort performance" bikes like the cdale synapse. While you could commute/ride it just fine, they are really for active people who got old.

The bikes you linked were outfitted in some very basic 8 speed parts, to bump up to 9 speed Sora drive train would be a boon for quality, performance, longevity, upgrades. Nothing good has been made for 8 speed in a very long time. Jumping up again to 10 speed Tiagra would open up a huge amount if you wanted an extra set of wheels, upgrades down the line that would still be worth something used, or whatever. That busts the budget by a couple hundred tough. If there is a lot of quality used in your area could also go nuts linking craigslist prospects and buy new once you are in in.

Spoiler: show

Pinarello's are for try hards and white collars who don't actually ride.

[Senji]

Most will include pedals but many people ride clipless these days which are bought separately.

Only additional costs when I bought mine were a pump, spare tube, water bottle holder and helmet.

Make sure your pump has a metal barrel. The plastic ones never last long. (and get one with a psi gauge)

Get them to toss in two cages, two bottles, two spare tubes. Push as far as you can on blue park tire levers (cheapo ones will snap on you), 16 gram co2 kit (patches suck road side and won't last, 12g co2 cartridges leave too little room for error and aren't threaded nor user friendly), replacing rubber/plastic rim strips with cloth ones. Normally they will give a discount on same day purchases/30 days on accessories. Get red blinky led light to go on seatpost, try on helmets, shoes, shorts. Can also buy off Amazon or mail order if so inclined.

Aim for a 30 to 40 dollar price point pump with plastic lever body that actuates in parallel with the hose by opening out to lock, and lever closing to release seal. ie not the ones that twist to make the seal, and not the ones that can open the lever to seal and then keep going to open again.They will bend shit and piss you off. It will secure better, won't ding shit up, and be rebuildable with O rings. O rings get chewed up when it flops around and cuts on the valve stem threads. Shouldn't be happening with a floor pump, happens with mini portable hand pumps far more often.

Clothes are a whole different animal. Shorts (and different shorts) make a huge difference. Glasses.