PC Build Advice/Review II: 5090 or Bust.

[Salodin]

You need like a $500+ card to even think of reasonably doing native 4k gaming. You might be able to save with a used card off eBay, but even with upscaling like dlss you need a beefy card to manage it. Of course you can always just upscale lower resolution, which is likely much more in your budget.

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[Qalbert]

yeah I tried setting my xbox to 1440 and 1080 and neither looked terrible, so I could probably get by doing that. my budget is rather tight, I don't think I could go any higher than like $2k max.

[Cyn]

4k displays scale to 1080 easily by basically just linking 4 pixels into a single pixel. 4k displays don't scale to 2k as well because the pixels don't line up that way, so the resulting image ends up being a little jagged and distorted.

[Outlaw]

Here are ones with a 5070 ti that are the lowest price I could find. They don't say what brand of GPU, RAM, etc. they have though.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...tml?ap=y&smp=Y

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...tml?ap=y&smp=Y

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/acer...ack/JX5V2XG2LS

[Melena]

Ok, running into a "bug" with my new compucomputer, and for the life of me, I can't figure it out.

I swapped out the WD NVME for my two Samsung 980 2tb from my old system, did a fresh format and install.

Prior I was able to do a .950 undervolt and 3100mhz overclock and the system was consistently pushing 3k+ mhz.

Now even with a .980 undervolt, and setting it to 3kmhz for the overclock, it can't stay about 2,875mhz. Still much higher than standard boost.

Absolutely no clue what's going on. Gpu-z is saying power is limiting it. So not sure what to do.

Double and triple checked all cables and reseated them just in case something got knocked loose.

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[Outlaw]

I noticed the thread title finally got changed so because of that.

You have to get one of these now to be one of the cool kids.

https://rog.asus.com/graphics-cards/...090-p32g-30th/

https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-spec...edition.b12858

[Melena]

Does it cost as much as the MSI lightning at 5,090 dollars?

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[Krandor]

It was $4000 with a limited run of 1000 cards and sold out instantly

[Krandor]

Nvidia released an update for their app today that added Dynamic Frame Gen for the 50 series (can set a target fps and it'll adjust MFG accordingly) and an option to re-compile shaders in the background after driver updates.

[IceSylph]

TL;DR:

Currently have an i7-13700k with a Deepcool AK620 for a CPU Cooler. Generally haven't had any problems with this for the ~3 years since I've built it.
Idle's ~41-46c. Most gaming is around 75-80c.

Nioh 3 is pretty CPU heavy. Makes my temps go really high. Noticed yesterday that it was hitting between 95-101c. Obviously, not too happy with that number. Cleaned out PC and changed a setting in power management to use only 99% processing, which lowered temps a little bit.

Looking to either add an exhaust fan at the top (mixed on if it's worth it, based on people I've spoken with/videos) to help with temps. I'm also open to maybe just replacing the cooler with an AIO if it would help with temps noticeably. Only reason I went with air over AIO when I built it was that I've never used liquid in a PC before, and didn't want the PC to get destroyed in the case of a leak or an accident.

Any recommendations on the recommended path to take? If AIO, is there any recommended one? I know people have hyped Arctic Liquid Freezer III in the past, but also have seen that mounting it is kind of ass.

[Krandor]

Have you changed the thermal material in the 3+ years you've been using it?

Your initial thermal material application might have already been not great. Those temps are good for a laptop not so much for a desktop CPU

[Elizara]

So okay. I'm getting close to my budget in savings ($1300); been glaring at this build. (Need about $600 which hopefuly I can save up soonish tho cons might get in the way.)

Mind, I might not need a case if the motherboard can fit in my old case, don't think I can do TOO much salvaging other than my DVD burner, my HDD (for extra storage) and my wireless network card (tho depending on the mb I might not need that.). Any suggestions guys? We have a Microcenter within driving distance.

Just so you know so you know my needs here; I want to be able to play newer games and hopefully have a pc that will outlast this current ARGH STUPID AIS GOBBLING MEMORY crisis. 4k would be nice b/c my tv/screen can support that but it's not 100% necessary, I just want to be able to run newer games without my pc choking. I like Nivida but I'm willing to go a little lower than top card; this is meant to be midrange gamer really.

[Outlaw]

That's not bad. A few things to mention.

I noticed that the SSD is only Gen 3 with speeds of only 2,200MB read/write 1,600MB. The board you picked supports up to Gen 5. Here is a Gen 4 with 5,000/4,800 MB for only $12 more:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4kp...01kgbp44ud9005

Don't ever cheap out on a PSU. I have never heard of that power supply brand. I did a quick search and they are popular because they cost less but there are a lot of posts/videos warning of failures.

Here is a Phanteks for the same price. They have much better warranties:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wY9...ph-p850gh_bk01

Alternative:

Thermaltake Toughpower with excellent ratings across all stores for $16 more.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kVy...d-0850fnfagu-p

One last thing. Do you care about Raytracing, path tracing? (lighting effects) That is a great card but Nvidia does those much better. Also DLSS is a better upscaler than AMDs FSR since you said you want to try it on your 4k tv.

[Elizara]

Thanks Outlaw. Not too picky about lighting effects but I've been a Nvidia girl for a while now so if there's a Nvidia card that'd let me stay in budget, more power to me. (Processor; well, AMD seems to be the way to go especially for a budget build.) As I said, 4k wouldn't be 100% necessary tho my new TV supports that; I might not get teh full effect anyway since it's a smaller tv. That's why that is in the "nice, but not necessary" category.

And yeah, I was using that build from Reddit for a ballpark kinda thing; when it comes to brass tacks, I want to be sure I don't have my PSU fail or anything so wouldn't mind using it as a base to figure out a partpicker for the real build. And use Microcenter to the HILT this time b/c well, you really have to if you don't want to pay though the nose for memory. (That build was created by that guy last summer after all, so updates are a good idea.)

[Buffy]

About 4-6 months ago I built a new PC, and bought some DDR5-6000 RAM among a ton of other things at Microcenter. I observed today that they are only reporting 4800 in the PC. Checked the box, says 6000, checked the label on the DIMMs, says 6000.

Given the time that has passed, do I have any recourse with either Microcenter or Corsair? I have the original box and packing material, but no receipt.

[Buffy]

Oh some reading indicates this is an overclock thing. I gotta read some more

[Krandor]

You probably didn't enable xmp in the BIOS

[Buffy]

You probably didn't enable xmp in the BIOS

EXPO for AMD, and I thought I HAD done this, but surely I hadn't. Crisis averted.

[Outlaw]

HOLY SHIT!!

I may have just gotten the greatest deal ever! Or I may have gotten scammed. Either way I still win because eBay will give me my money back.

[Elizara]

Okay redid a partpicker with what you said, Outlaw.

Here's the personal one.

I added the parts I want to salvage. Mind, the MB and memory is subject to change due to deals at Microcenter, and I may cheap out and use the included cooler, and of course (even tho it's not listed) salvage my case fans. Any suggestions to improve that without breaking the budget, guys? Like, I'm not sure what's a good budget Nivida card, for instance so went with AMD for the moment.