Random question, I know most standard USB-C bricks cap out at 140W output per port and that's what most devices (including laptops) cap out at for receiving power through USB-C. But I know 240W cables exist. So are there any bricks that actually offer 240W through a port for those cables?
The 502X has two side buttons to the left of the left click and two traditional thumb buttons. The top buttons are default assigned to change DPI, but I think they can be reassigned. There's a wired version (I use one).
So okay.
Remember my new planned computer build?
Been staring at this bundle. Only problem is it only comes with one memory stick. I'm watching ebay auctions to get a second one (HOPEFULLY CHEAPER AND IN THE PACKAGING).
Would that work if it's the same make and all? Or is there some slightly cheaper RAM that will work and I won't have to play roulette with? Rather keep 32 gb of ram for crying out loud.
It does mean I'll have to save a little more money to make this work, but I expected that. A pox on AI farms..
I would only get the same model. And I mean EXACT same. Same RAM timings, same model number, or you could run into problems. G.Skill is very reliable.
Since this is kind of the defacto tech thread
I was moving my PC and went to boot it. I didn't realize I had an update waiting so it started Auto updating. I accidentally pushed the power button in the middle of the update... I don't know why it would accept such a command its not like I hard powered it down but alas, it shut itself down at 7%.
Of course, Windows is fucked up. The worst part though is that I can't even make it past post without the PC powering down automatically. Just straight turns itself off. I can make it to the bios menu, even the boot menu within the bios, but anything further than the bios is an auto power down and idk how to fix this. I tried loading off the recovery USB, still can't make it. I'm stumped, aside from just getting a new hard drive which I'd really rather not do.
I thought it might be a power supply issue cause it's pushing 12 years now but I can stay in the bios menu as long as I want without powering down. It only powers down as soon as it tries to do anything Windows related. Anyone got some advice?
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You said it yourself, it's not a hardware issue, you broke your windows install.
If it's possible to boot into safe mode you might be able to save stuff, but if you've completely borked it you're just gonna have to do a fresh install of windows.
I can't even get to the installation manager, literally anything past the bios check turns the machine off. I'm gonna try a different hard drive and see if that solves it, which would be a real bummer.
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Alright that did it. Was able to get it going with my other hard drive, then got the installer going and repaired it once I could actually boot to a menu other than bios. What a weird weird glitch, but at least no hardware is broken thank god
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A couple of reliable leakers have said that the 5000 series Supers are going to happen this year. They were just delayed due to the ram crisis. According to internal documents the GPUs will have 4 more GB of VRAM each. I was waiting on a sale for the 5070 Ti but I can wait a few more months.
It's a vram crisis out there. It's the main thing holding me back. I won't settle for less than 12gb in the future.
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Fuck yeah, can soon ditch Windows!
https://x.com/i/status/2069105967548203223
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Meanwhile the Steam Machine starts at $1049, RIP anyone who was excited about it cause goddamn
I went overboard and used a 395MAX Framework desktop as the computer in my arcade machine, not feeling so bad about that seeing steam machine prices now
Price is even worse than what I thought it would be. That is only the 512 GB model. If you want the 2 TB one it will cost you over $1,500 with tax and that's without the controller.
Don't even look at Canadian prices. Their laughable.
512gb with steam installs is absolutely nothing so that offering may as well not exist tbh
i guess you could buy it and wait several years for prices to normalize on ddr5/storage lol
with steamOS releasing for amd/intel GPU devices at some point soon with nvidia coming later, may as well build something yourself
The storage would be less of an issue for me if Steam Machine supported MicroSD Express cards. In its current state I'd just be taping an external USB SSD to it since that'll work fine for 90% of the games that ask for one.
Not that I can justify throwing a grand and a half leaf bux at a secondary device that barely performs in RT-mandated games.
That'll be a lot of work on Valve's end for ensuring drivers won't be an issue for a lot of people. The whole point of SteamOS for the Deck/Machine I figured would be that it just works out of the box, vs. the DIY builds.
I thought I'd ask. This is why I will proly wait a little longer after I get my budget (and of course my build will change accordingly then) but..It is looking like I will have to buy a new copy of Win 11, tho I'll try d/ling and seeing if my upgrade key from Windows 7 to 10 will work first. Tho it is iffy.
Which windows would be recommended for a gaming pc? I have been getting mixed results when I ask..I'm leaning toward Home at the moment.
Just download windows onto a USB (Google it, it's very quick and easy) and buy a cdkey for windows online. You'll end up spending like $20 or less and have the exact same thing. I don't have a preference on version of windows, I don't do anything where is notice the difference.
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Unless you know the specific use case for why you would need Professional/LTSC/etc just stick to Home, especially if you're actually paying for it
I use LTSC for my emulator box because it's a computer with a singular use case, but it strips away so much basic functionality of Windows it's not good as a daily driver.
massgrave.dev
All i'm going to say.