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  1. #241
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    Saw 4 homes today, putting an offer on one. 1660 sq. ft. 4 bedroom home. Need to sacrifice a goat to get it as it had back to back showings today. Dunno how high we should go on our offer before saying it's not worth it. @.@; The home with the pool also had back-to-back showings today so I am hoping more people go for that one instead of this one.

    Gives us hope that if it doesn't work out, something else will pop up.

  2. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ksandra View Post
    Saw 4 homes today, putting an offer on one. 1660 sq. ft. 4 bedroom home. Need to sacrifice a goat to get it as it had back to back showings today. Dunno how high we should go on our offer before saying it's not worth it. @.@; The home with the pool also had back-to-back showings today so I am hoping more people go for that one instead of this one.

    Gives us hope that if it doesn't work out, something else will pop up.
    I had 40 showings before I got the first 3 offers, 6 showings in one day. Don't worry about who else is looking if there isn't an offer on the table. This was within the last month and a half, too.

  3. #243
    Nidhogg
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    My best advice after going through my buying adventure, don't get your heart set on any house you see until you've got an approved offer and are moving forward. Over the course of 2~ months, I made about 7 offers, with 5 of those being declined for one reason or another. It's a major sellers market where I'm at. There were houses that would be listed and offers accepted same day cause there were people looking to capitalize on the low rates. Even had one that was $130k, really fit my needs, great location, no upfront repair concerns, so I offered $140k. Got beat by someone offering $160k. :/ One offer was accepted, but the inspection found erosion under the house. Got a plumber out and he quoted about $10k in work that wouldn't even fully correct the issue, just prevent further deterioration and prevent a collapse. Used that as an opportunity to get outta that offer.

    Questioned putting this in the tech post or here, figured I'd try here. My house is two stories + basement with old style plaster and wood walls. Wifi range is pathetic with em. I'm looking into getting a mesh system to give me full coverage upstairs and downstairs, but I'm so outta the loop on tech anymore. What should I be looking for in a mesh system? Is it a case of don't go too cheap, or anything over a median price is just tossing on "gamer" on the box somewhere and some extra features that'll never be used? I have coax cables ran to each floor already, but not really sure how setting up multiple access points would work with only a single modem. I could contact Spectrum and see what they may be able to offer, but I asked the tech originally when he was here and he said multiple modems wouldn't be offered nor work.

  4. #244
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    Yo I'm in the same boat I am hopefully moving into a 2story+basement and I was thinking about putting the office/gaming room (router) in the basement. Let me know if you find anything out outside here - but you should head to tech.

  5. #245
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    Also looks like the buyer fell through on my house. We finished attorney review, they were putting down half, and the night before inspection they claimed family emergency and cancelled the inspection. My realtor and lawyer had trouble getting in contact with them or their realtor after that and it's been a week. We finally got the approval yesterday to relist and take new offers even though we're under contract and it hasn't been voided yet. Already had two showings last night and more today and tomorrow. Really hope I can fuck them on their deposit or force them to do an inspection anyway though because we're supposed to be closing on the home we're purchasing on the 31st.

    Hope a new buyer rolls up without contingencies looking for a quick close asap.

  6. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malithar View Post
    Questioned putting this in the tech post or here, figured I'd try here. My house is two stories + basement with old style plaster and wood walls. Wifi range is pathetic with em. I'm looking into getting a mesh system to give me full coverage upstairs and downstairs, but I'm so outta the loop on tech anymore. What should I be looking for in a mesh system? Is it a case of don't go too cheap, or anything over a median price is just tossing on "gamer" on the box somewhere and some extra features that'll never be used? I have coax cables ran to each floor already, but not really sure how setting up multiple access points would work with only a single modem. I could contact Spectrum and see what they may be able to offer, but I asked the tech originally when he was here and he said multiple modems wouldn't be offered nor work.
    I have this and its fucking awesome: https://www.amazon.com/AmpliFi-Ubiqu.../dp/B01L9O08PW

  7. #247
    I'll change yer fuckin rate you derivative piece of shit
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    For five hundred fucking dollars it had better be awesome

  8. #248
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    Bought a drain grate to go over an existing drain on the end of my driveway. It was just some molded wire done just enough to keep large yard debris out, so I figured I would go ahead and update that. The drain opening is a hair under 4 inches in diameter, and the grated head is just over 6 inches square.

    Drain grate.

    The square area is roughly outlined in the cement already, but placing this into the existing hole will most likely not be flush with the driveway by maybe a half inch. It looks like the driveway was poured around this opening, because it has a raised lip on 3 sides around it. I am 90% sure there is not a catch basin under the cement section, just a pipe.

    1. How do I go about cutting into the cement around this 6in outline to make this cover fit flush?

    2. Do I need to apply anything around the grate to make it water tight? There does not seem to be any holes to drill the base into the cement.

    3. As for where the downward grate opening meets the pipe, am I correct that this does not need to be water tight or sealed in any way? Water would be flowing right into the pipe.

  9. #249
    Electric Six groupie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirin View Post
    Bought a drain grate to go over an existing drain on the end of my driveway. It was just some molded wire done just enough to keep large yard debris out, so I figured I would go ahead and update that. The drain opening is a hair under 4 inches in diameter, and the grated head is just over 6 inches square.

    Drain grate.

    The square area is roughly outlined in the cement already, but placing this into the existing hole will most likely not be flush with the driveway by maybe a half inch. It looks like the driveway was poured around this opening, because it has a raised lip on 3 sides around it. I am 90% sure there is not a catch basin under the cement section, just a pipe.

    1. How do I go about cutting into the cement around this 6in outline to make this cover fit flush?

    2. Do I need to apply anything around the grate to make it water tight? There does not seem to be any holes to drill the base into the cement.

    3. As for where the downward grate opening meets the pipe, am I correct that this does not need to be water tight or sealed in any way? Water would be flowing right into the pipe.
    1. A grinder with a concrete grinding disk would work. I don't think you have one lying around the house, I imagine. Don't go chipping it away since you might end up taking out chunks rather than smoothing the surface.

    2. There should not be any reason to make it water tight. Is there occupied space adjacent to this drain? If its just yard soil then no need.

    3. Check how snug it fits. Will you be driving over this with a car? May need to apply cement paste to keep it secure. Check with a plumber/hardware store specialist since I'm just spitballing on that one.

  10. #250
    Ridill
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    I don't drive over it at all. Its off to the side of the driveway leading toward the garage door and sits right up against my lawn. It's there because with it being below street level water likes to collect there during heavy rains.

    By grinder, do you mean one of those smaller handheld things that looks like a mix between a dremel and a handheld circular saw?

  11. #251
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    House we put an offer on feel through. They had 7 offers, and the counter was something we couldn't do. Have four more we are going to hopefully look at. I have a question about one.

    So, to give more specifics, our high end cap is $650k. Our broker told us he could technically approve us up to $720k, but I don't want to go that high. At $650k our monthly debt will go up about $400 a month more than what we are paying with current debt. Doable, but not ideal.

    So there is a home that may pop up starting tomorrow. It is currently in escrow and is $639k. 4 bed, 3 bath 2100 sq. ft. The buyers are on the verge of pulling out of escrow, and are making that decision today. What happened? The roof is due to be replaced. The estimate they have is about $12k. My realtor said everything else (from what was told to her) has passed inspection but this. Buyers want sellers to pay for it, sellers refuse. They tried doing half and half, sellers still refused.

    So if we got it, it would be with the idea that we'd have to pay for the new roof.

    Is it worth it? My mom says to never buy a house that doesn't have a good roof. From what they told my realtor, there are no leaks (obviously we would check if in escrow), and that it's just old. House is from 1968, so possible roof is just old and they never upgraded it because they had no issues. But no point in looking at it if this should be a dealbreaker.

  12. #252
    I'll change yer fuckin rate you derivative piece of shit
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    Sounds like it needs a new roof. 12k is a reasonable estimate. If you aren't willing to pay for it, shop somewhere else. I'd strongly suggest replacing the roof immediately, before you move in, if possible. Should take 3-4 days of work, if you can get a roofer scheduled before you move in.

  13. #253
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    I guess my question is it worth buying a home that needs a new roof to begin with? Houses are so limited right now which is probably why the sellers aren’t budging. They know they can sell it despite the roof.


    So right now we are looking at:

    1. That home with a new roof needed (has an inground pool btw)
    2. A 1700 sq ft 4 bedroom home for only $525k. As you may guess needs tons of upgrades, but we could afford to do them. Gonna really look to make sure it doesn’t have termite/water damage/etc. This one is tempting because it’s the newest home (built in 1989). So as long as this is cosmetic, we may easily go with this one.
    3/4. Homes very similar to the one we put an offer on, and are no more than a block away from the home we put an offer on. I worry these will get the same treatment as the original home due to being so similar.

    5. A home that is 2200 sq. Ft. 5 bedroom home for $630k. This one added an additional room as a guest area (I THINK guest room has its own bathroom). Looks good but the yard seems to have an awkward shape. We need to see it to know if it would work for us.

  14. #254
    I'll change yer fuckin rate you derivative piece of shit
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    If the extra 12k on top of the price isn't a problem, then who cares if it needs a new roof? It won't need one once you've replaced it lol.

  15. #255
    I'll change yer fuckin rate you derivative piece of shit
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    My current house needed a new roof when we bought it, so we replaced it, and now it's great.

  16. #256
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    idk My mom says never to do that. Her logic is there could be damage you don't see before it's too late. I am not sure if she's right or if this is outdated rule of thought.

  17. #257
    I'll change yer fuckin rate you derivative piece of shit
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ksandra View Post
    idk My mom says never to do that. Her logic is there could be damage you don't see before it's too late. I am not sure if she's right or if this is outdated rule of thought.
    There's a small amount of unknown rotten boards underneath the shingles that will need replacing, but a competent roofer will identify and replace it, give or take $1000ish. Anything beyond that a competent inspection should uncover. We live in SoCal, it's not a rainy place. It should be fine.

  18. #258
    You wouldn't know that though because you've demonstrably never picked up a book nor educated yourself on the matter. Let me guess, overweight housewife?
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    Ok thanks for the tip. We'll find out tonight whether we can look at it.

    The needing new roof might work to our advantage.

    Apparently on my new list above: #2 already has 7 offers and is already at 10k over it's asking price. #5 Is already sold.


    It's a nightmare out there right now. We may end up having to cut our losses unless we get really lucky.

  19. #259
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    Agreed with Archi. Sounds like they won't budge on negotiations with needing a new roof. If the interior looks good and no leakage reported, it's likely you won't find much in the way of hidden damages (unless sellers are hiding information and covered up any damage. Pretty sure you are required to disclose any of this to buyers).

    A LOT goes into a roof replacement beyond just shingles (assuming this is like all the houses in the area with some shallow pitched roofs). They will need to replace the underlayment/water barrier (we northerners need ice barriers, too) and any rotting plywood substrate. Flashing is required at roof penetrations like vent stacks and chimneys, and along exterior walls where it rises above the roof otherwise water will just seep into the crack between the openings. These are things all competent roofers will include in their bid package. Don't try to cheap out on this and save a few bucks.

    Also note that asphalt shingles require heat from the sun to properly "seal" the shingles. We often find failed roofing systems when they are installed in the winter. Probably not a problem in SoCal I don't think you are replacing with Spanish clay tile? Those last a long time assuming no one walks on the roof.

  20. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirin View Post
    I don't drive over it at all. Its off to the side of the driveway leading toward the garage door and sits right up against my lawn. It's there because with it being below street level water likes to collect there during heavy rains.

    By grinder, do you mean one of those smaller handheld things that looks like a mix between a dremel and a handheld circular saw?
    Basically an angle grinder with a disk meant for grinding the surface of concrete. You'll need to wear a fine particulate mask during this work for safety reasons (silica is muy mal). Alternatively attach a vacuum system to it. Since its such a small area you shouldn't need anything bigger.

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