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Thread: The Photography Thread     submit to reddit submit to twitter

  1. #481
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    I work at Best Buy so I can get all the accessories on the cheap, just don't think there's much of a discount on the cameras and lenses themselves. I'll have to look into the Ti or D3000.

  2. #482
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    If you work at best buy then go play with the cameras and then find out what discounts you get. You might be able to get quite a bit of stuff on your $600 budget.

  3. #483
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    If you work at Best Buy, you should be asking your manager about the Nikon Vendor Program.

    20-40% off bodies, lenses and pieces.

    If you get the pdf, I'd like to see what they've changed in the last six months too.

  4. #484
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    Oh man how long do you have to have a job at a vendor before you get that discount? I should go get a part time job lol.

  5. #485
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    I wish I could check on that shit from home.

  6. #486
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    XS and XSI are the Canon entry-level models. The T1i and T2i are pretty much thier higher end cameras (minus the 5Ds, etc) wrapped in a rebel package (smaller form factor) They're essentially a 50D and 7D (respectively). They have the same sensors and processors. PQ is the same, but it's not quite as fast.

    I would think you should be able to get a T1i kit for around 600 since the T2i was just released, but I don't know. The pictures I took were taken with a T1i.

    @Zoober. I try to take pictures using the rule of thirds. Doesn't always go great when shooting 3 candids a second. Sometimes I'll just wrap back and crop them in PP. The above I didn't do any PP though (other than raw conversion), I just posted them strait out of the camera. I'll see if I can't find a few where I shot the subject to the side.

  7. #487
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    Yeah I hear you on that one. I also don't usually say anything about it because the rule of thirds is more of a suggestion than a rule and there are many situations where central subjects do work. It was just the only thing I noticed about a couple of the pics you posted.

    They are very sharp and really great though specially straight out of the camera.

  8. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by zoobernut View Post
    Oh man how long do you have to have a job at a vendor before you get that discount? I should go get a part time job lol.
    3 Months.

    The last price list I got printed out was good up to June 09.

    I would love to see what the prices are now.

    There was some notable stuff that quarter, like the 70-200mm f/2.8 for $1,600, 70-300mm AF-S for $350, D700 for $2,100 (dropped by $100 for the next quarter).

  9. #489
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    looked up reviews on the d3000/5000 and d3000 seems like it's more user friendly for someone like myself, but I'd be able to use the 5000 for a lot longer.

    Hmpf, wish my money was getting so tight

  10. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by mootsfox View Post
    3 Months.

    The last price list I got printed out was good up to June 09.

    I would love to see what the prices are now.

    There was some notable stuff that quarter, like the 70-200mm f/2.8 for $1,600, 70-300mm AF-S for $350, D700 for $2,100 (dropped by $100 for the next quarter).
    Does it apply for part time employees? I seriously might have to go get a one or two day a week part time job just to get the discount. That is insanely good. Even with the rebate system going on right now that is ~$400 cheaper.

    Oh well I probably will just have to be a normal person and spend the cash if I want to upgrade my stuff.

  11. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by zoobernut View Post
    Does it apply for part time employees? I seriously might have to go get a one or two day a week part time job just to get the discount. That is insanely good. Even with the rebate system going on right now that is ~$400 cheaper.

    Oh well I probably will just have to be a normal person and spend the cash if I want to upgrade my stuff.
    You don't have to be a full time employee, but you do have to have your store manager's approval. As well as the Nikon rep for your store.

  12. #492
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    What do you want to know the price of moots, i'll pm ya

  13. #493
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    double post but it looks like I'm down to the Nikon D5000 and the Rebel T1i. My dad emailed the photography professor on campus whom he works with often and he recommended the the XSi or the T1/2i and that a lot of students have had problems with the D5/3000.

  14. #494
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    I have not had any issues with my D3000. Remember the camera is not as important as the fact that you are buying into a "system" if you plan on investing on lenses and other bodies and accessories. Go play with the cameras and see which ones you like the feel and ergonomics of.

    For example I liked Nikon because they were lighter and fit my hand more comfortably, their menus were also easier to navigate for me.

  15. #495
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    I thought about going 3000 or XSi but I really do want a live view :-/

  16. #496
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    While I know people like to hold their cameras like they're point and shoots, live view is shit. It's only good for one thing, and that's to check your framing/composition while on a tripod. MAYBE for video, but I'm not a videographer, I'm a photographer first. What will happen is that you'll be compromising your stability since the camera is a lot bigger than a typica point and shoot, and if you dip your shutter speed below 1/60th (I'm being generous), you WILL experience shake and blur.

    Learn to use the viewfinder, it's really a lot better than using live view. It'll force you to hold the camera stable, and look at your settings through the viewfinder, as well as see important info like your light meter readings, and the like.

    One thing to keep in mind about the Rebel and T series, is that they require you to press a button to toggle between controlling your shutter speed, and your aperture. For me, that's a big annoyance, so I have the 5DII and 40D - they have back rotary dials that you can use to control your aperture, and your front trigger dial controls your shutter speed. This makes changing your settings so much easier without ever having to take your eyes from the viewfinder - a big positive if you shoot sports, fast moving things, and need to keep focus/change your settings on the fly.

    Could always order a used 40D or 30D, 8-10 MP is generally good enough for most people anyway, unless you plan to blow up and print your images beyond 16x20.

  17. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zansho View Post
    While I know people like to hold their cameras like they're point and shoots, live view is shit. It's only good for one thing, and that's to check your framing/composition while on a tripod. MAYBE for video, but I'm not a videographer, I'm a photographer first. What will happen is that you'll be compromising your stability since the camera is a lot bigger than a typica point and shoot, and if you dip your shutter speed below 1/60th (I'm being generous), you WILL experience shake and blur.

    Learn to use the viewfinder, it's really a lot better than using live view. It'll force you to hold the camera stable, and look at your settings through the viewfinder, as well as see important info like your light meter readings, and the like.

    One thing to keep in mind about the Rebel and T series, is that they require you to press a button to toggle between controlling your shutter speed, and your aperture. For me, that's a big annoyance, so I have the 5DII and 40D - they have back rotary dials that you can use to control your aperture, and your front trigger dial controls your shutter speed. This makes changing your settings so much easier without ever having to take your eyes from the viewfinder - a big positive if you shoot sports, fast moving things, and need to keep focus/change your settings on the fly.

    Could always order a used 40D or 30D, 8-10 MP is generally good enough for most people anyway, unless you plan to blow up and print your images beyond 16x20.
    You have to use the viewfinder for video, as the mirror is up during.

    I'd like to know the prices of the D300s, D700 and if they added anything else (Namely D3 or pro glass)

  18. #498
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    I've played with a D3, and it's quite nice.

    Like I said before moots, I'm a photographer first, and I don't really do any video even though my 5DII is capable of it. I got the 5DII for several reasons:

    Increased ISO performance
    Higher resolution
    Full Frame Sensor


    Considering the camera it replaced (50D) the 5DII was like going from a Honda Civic to driving a Lexus. It really IS so much better ISO wise, and there's some stuff I can do that just boggles my mind. The camera sees better than my OWN eyes, I swear.

    I did a shoot a while back, and I was amazed at how I could see myself with the camera's body in the reflection of the model's eyes, AND was able to make out small letters of the 50mm 1.2 I was using. Quality like that is usually inherent in large format cameras back in the film days, and it's amazing how far technology has come.

    Next purchase will probably be a TS lens, as I've got everything else I want at present. Maybe a new lighting set, as my Elinchroms are getting up there in age.

  19. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zansho View Post
    Could always order a used 40D or 30D, 8-10 MP is generally good enough for most people anyway, unless you plan to blow up and print your images beyond 16x20.
    Except those don't fit the budget

  20. #500
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    This just arrived in the mail today. N80 35mm film camera body. It has my 50mm f1.4 on it which I already had. $62 on KEH.com great place for used camera gear.

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