Halp! 11 Week Kitty

[Yuri-G]

I do the same exact thing with my cat. it keeps his teeth healthier and the way he acts when I open a can of wet food is hilarious.

also, try getting into the habit of brushing the cat's teeth (they don't like it but the toothpaste out there is mostly meat-flavored so they eventually get used to it). this is one thing I don't do that I'm sure I'm going to regret later on in his life, I really need to get on that. I don't know if it's recommended to brush a kitten's teeth though? would be a good thing to ask a vet at the next visit.

[Eticket]

I was at this BBQ a few weeks back and I was hitting on this girl who turned out to be a vet student at my university. She was talking to me about her dog and what not, and then asked if I had any pets and I said "I have a cat". Her response was "How does it feel to have no soul" and turned her back to me and started a conversation with some random girl.

Hahahaha. I'm thinking you dodged a bullet on that one. She's going to make one hell of a vet.

[Brill Weave]

This is another thing you can do if you're not getting him declawed. Most cat's don't like it when you mess with their paws, at all. When you're holding him rubs the pads of his feet every now and then. That way he won't freak out when it comes time to trim his claws. It will save you needless scratches lol.

The spare room thing is probably the biggest thing I would say you need to do for your own sake. We tried leaving him a few times overnight on the weekends. But he's still so little that all he wants to do is play nonstop. So he sees one of the cats sleeping on my wife's head and he attacks. Not fun waking up with multiple kitties launching themselves off your chest, claws first.

[Yuri-G]

oh yeah, good idea. I wish I had thought of that when I was raising my kitten. I suppose I could still try it now but I bet it would work a lot better if you do it since they're young so they get used to it more easily.

[Matricide]

We just got a 12 week old kitten a few weeks ago and I did a lot of research.

1. Litter, do like they said, just put it in there it will remember where it is.
2. Keep food in separate room from litter.
3. I opted not to get cheap crappy food because there's a lot of bad stuff in em for cats/kittens. If you can't afford a good food like Wellness, Petsmart. has a decent 'home' brand called authority. Make sure to give it the kitten branded foods until it's a year old or so. Dry foods are preferable you can treat with wet food (IMO), and actual treats for when it does something good.

A note: stay away from any 'by product' ingrediants, 'meat by product' can be euthanized pets because there's no regulations.

4. Please, do NOT declaw, it's like chopping your fingertips off, not like clipping your nails. Look up training kittens to not claw up your stuff, including getting a sturdy scratching post etc. Trim its nails or use a product called softclaws/softpaws which are little caps you glue to their nails.

Goin home so that'll do for now. Gluck

[Xajii]

I DEMAND KITTY PICTURES

[Cesaria]

Thankfully declawing is a no-no over here... never had a problem with the tripod clawing furniture - just have a water pistol handy to snipe her if she starts waving a claw at the sofa and she's never been any problem with it.

Bit of advice - learn how to sleep without moving your toes at all unless you want to be woken up by tiny (sharp) teeth thinking it's kitten playtime with the bedmice (those mythical cat creatures that are the most wonderful mice of all and live under the blankets when owners go to sleep)... from bitter experience here - kitten teeth in human toes at 3am bloody hurt.

[Cesaria]

This is another thing you can do if you're not getting him declawed. Most cat's don't like it when you mess with their paws, at all. When you're holding him rubs the pads of his feet every now and then. That way he won't freak out when it comes time to trim his claws. It will save you needless scratches lol.

The spare room thing is probably the biggest thing I would say you need to do for your own sake. We tried leaving him a few times overnight on the weekends. But he's still so little that all he wants to do is play nonstop. So he sees one of the cats sleeping on my wife's head and he attacks. Not fun waking up with multiple kitties launching themselves off your chest, claws first.

My stupid furball LIKES having her feet stroked. She never got this memo apparently (mind you she purrs when the vet shoves a thermometer up her arse and leans on him for a cuddle).

As for the waking up being a kitty springboard - she's also got this trick where she'll tap you gently with a paw if you stop stroking her to remind you she's still awaiting pampering... gradually it developed into tapping you on the nose to wake you up for attention, and trying to shove a furry paw up your nostril if that didn't provoke results - furry paws up your nose at 4am cos the cat wants a cuddle isn't fun either.

[zoobernut]

Declawing is really bad for cats. I don't remember all the details but my wife has told me all of the points before.

[Yuri-G]

as much as I love the "things under the blanket" game with my cat, I just plain don't play it with him because it leads him to attacking me while I'm sleeping. after getting kicked out of bed a few times he got the message.

[Kael]

Yeah, don't worry. I'm adamant about not de-clawing cats. I was going to go with the Purina or Iams Kitten products for food.

[Eticket]

I DEMAND KITTY PICTURES

This. Everyone knows you have to post pussy pics along with making any pussy thread.

[Warudo Ecksu]

how is this on page 2 and still no pix

[Kohan]

I stuck with dry food, and gave my cats wet food as a treat. Dry food keeps their teeth in better condition.

Many people do give cats wet food occasionally and dry usually, but that isn't what their teeth were designed for, nor their internals. In the wild, cats don't eat bones, and while the sort we keep as pets self-domesticated thousands of years ago, they and their brethren still didn't physically adapt to eating this stuff.

In addition, dry food gives cats a slightly higher chance of becoming overweight and developing diabeetus. It isn't as if dry food is horrible compared to wet, as some people will lead you to believe, but nonetheless, there is a real and proven difference (even if it's small).

If you can afford to -- and considering that Whole Foods sells their own brand of cat food with natural ingredients for less than a buck a can, it's do-able -- feeding your cats with wet food is the best way to go. Just don't go too cheap, because then you'll be loading them up with fillers, and your house with the smell of rancid wet food cat shit.

[zoobernut]

Many people do give cats wet food occasionally and dry usually, but that isn't what their teeth were designed for, nor their internals. In the wild, cats don't eat bones, and while the sort we keep as pets self-domesticated thousands of years ago, they and their brethren still didn't physically adapt to eating this stuff.

In addition, dry food gives cats a slightly higher chance of becoming overweight and developing diabeetus. It isn't as if dry food is horrible compared to wet, as some people will lead you to believe, but nonetheless, there is a real and proven difference (even if it's small).

If you can afford to -- and considering that Whole Foods sells their own brand of cat food with natural ingredients for less than a buck a can, it's do-able -- feeding your cats with wet food is the best way to go. Just don't go too cheap, because then you'll be loading them up with fillers, and your house with the smell of rancid wet food cat shit.

Hmm my wife's animal nutrition class and time working as a vet tech says otherwise. I will post details when she is off work and we are home but IIRC the order of food that is best for your cat health wise is raw meat > dry food > wet food. Wet food will rot their teeth faster than you can imagine if they are only fed that. Plus cats in the wild did chew on bones and stuff which naturally kept their teeth clean. They did not chew on them in the same way that dogs do though so don't think I am saying that.

Then again I could be mistaken, I guess I will find out in about an hour.

[Kohan]

Hmm my wife's animal nutrition class and time working as a vet tech says otherwise. I will post details when she is off work and we are home but IIRC the order of food that is best for your cat health wise is raw meat > dry food > wet food. Wet food will rot their teeth faster than you can imagine if they are only fed that. Plus cats in the wild did chew on bones and stuff which naturally kept their teeth clean. They did not chew on them in the same way that dogs do though so don't think I am saying that.

Then again I could be mistaken, I guess I will find out in about an hour.

What I like to do is give my cats these:

Feline Greenies® Dental Treats

That helps make up for the lack of bone chewing you mentioned, and the additional plaque accumulation associated with wet food.

Also, as your wife will probably mention, raw meat is indeed the best, but canned tuna (which doesn't really count as raw meat) does not. Don't give your cat that.

[Circe]

Hi there....I am Bigrougabagel's aforementioned wife. I am a certified Veterinary Technician with over 9 years of experience. So now that you know I am not blowing smoke, here are some general recommendations for your new furry baby

1. Studies show a combo of wet and dry food are probably best for cats of all ages. Unlike us and most other mammals, cats usually don't chew dry food unless it is a large size kibble. Thus they don't really get a benefit from the abrasion of the chewing motion like humans and dogs do. Also they are obligate carnivores, which means they MUST have a majority of their diet comprised of protein. High protein diets such as this are hard on the kidneys, so most well cared for cats run into kidney problems as an end of life issue. Feeding wet food along with dry helps to up the moisture content and water intake, which is easier on the kidneys. Also if the kitten is recently weaned it will likely eat better if water is added (not milk, most cats are lactose intolerant) to soften the food as it transitions.

2. Store brand foods are usually a low quality type of food. Kitten Chow is better than a store brand (Special Kitty, etc) in most cases, but IAMs, Eukanuba, Science Diet and IVet are usually even better brands if you can get them. You won't need to feed as much to achieve the same nutrition and they often have fewer additives, colors and preservatives. Before feeding a raw diet PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE research the hell out of it and consult your vet. A lot of folks feeding raw diets don't supplement them properly and the pets end up lacking vitamins and minerals as a result.

3. Behavior.....a lot of folks have mentioned not to play with your kitten with your hands and feet and they are 100% correct. What they learn now is what they will do later. A 1 pound kitten nipping your finger may be cute but a 12 pound cat out and out biting when they want attention is most definitely not. If the cat is biting then remove your hands or feet, say NO if you like, but then redirect it to other play with a toy of some sort. Cats need lots of activities or they get bored, which leads to destructive behavior and often obesity. Socializing your cat is important also.....getting them used to different situations can make traveling or boarding later in life much less stressful. Keep the cat carrier out so they can wander in and out of it and become used to it. PLEASE always transport your cat in a carrier. Yes I have watched a scared cat that jumped out of their owner's arms run into traffic and get hit by a car....not so much fun.

4. Please do take the kitten to a vet, and I believed you mentioned you were looking for one. Just an FYI.....you get what you pay for, so when you are shopping around please compare the services you are getting for the money. If they are vaccinating they really should do an exam to make sure your cat is ok to receive those vaccines. Cats are masters at hiding conditions until they are emergencies, so keeping up on care is important. Checking a stool sample for intestinal parasites is important. Most vets will likely deworm your kitten but no 1 dewormer gets all parasites, so checking to make sure there are not others is important. Several intestinal parasites that cats and dogs carry can be transmitted to people, so thats another reason to get it checked.

5. Another poster mentioned dental care and this is also an important part of your cat's health. You CAN brush your cat's teeth if you work on it as a step by step method. It is also a great way to bond with your cat because it becomes a routine you do together. Your kitten will lose it's teeth between the 4-6 month period, and you may not even notice them, but you can start getting him used to having his mouth handled beforehand. Cats are very much "What's in it for me" types, so make sure that you reward the behavior positvely. When the cat lets you stroke his mouth or lift his lip giving him a treat or a play session with a favorite toy will link that good feeling with your handling of his mouth. You can progress from lip lifting to running your finger around his teeth to actually brushing. DO NOT use human toothpaste as the fluoride will make them sick when they swallow it (and they will). You don't even need toothpaste, just a wet toothbrush or washcloth will be abrasive enough to clean the plaque off their teeth. Try to do it 2-3 times a week at minimum and it will make a HUGE difference. Studies have shown that routine dental care can extend your pets life upwards of 5 years, just like with humans.

6. In regards to declawing I will say this.....it's really up to you. If you do decide to declaw it is best to do it before they are 4 months old. With proper pain medication it is a minimally painful procedure...BUT GET PAIN MEDICATIONS!!! If you can train your cat to scratching posts and keep their claws trimmed it may not even be something you need to consider. If it becomes an issue of the cat destroying the furniture and you are considering giving it up, declaw the cat.

7. Lastly, litter.....most cats take to the litter box with minimal training. Unscented, clumping litter is usually best. Scented litters are nice for us but can be too much odor for the cat and cause them to avoid it. Cheap clay litters tend to be very dusty and can cause airway irritations in some cats, as well as being harder to keep clean. Keep the litter pan in a separate, quiet area from the rest of the house and away from the cat's food. Most cats do not like their food/water near their litter pan and this can also cause problems. It is not a bad idea to have 1 litter box/cat and 1 extra on top of that. Gives the cat options and if they are super fussy about the box can also keep them from going in the corner. IF your cat starts peeing/pooping outside the litter box and you have cleaned the boxes and not changed the type of litter, get them checked for a urinary tract infection. What starts as painful peeing can lead to litter box aversion and a habit of going outside the box. The majority of cats surrendered to humane societies are there because of inappropriate elmination issues.

OK I think I am done....lol. I know this was a huge amount of info but it's what I talk to people about every day. I have done my best to give a general outline, but again, if in doubt see a vet. Most things start small and are cheaper money and emotion wise to deal with when it is a minor problem than if you leave it go. Good Luck with your new kitty....mine are a joy and I hope your's will be too!

[Kael]

how is this on page 2 and still no pix

Sorry I was at work when I found out about the cat, and right now hes napping with his brother at my moms house so she didnt want to wake him and bring him to my house.

She decided to get one his brothers for herself. Shes bringing him tomorrow so I should have plenty of pictures tomorrow evening.

[Kael]

Hi there....I am Bigrougabagel's aforementioned wife. I am a certified Veterinary Technician with over 9 years of experience. So now that you know I am not blowing smoke, here are some general recommendations for your new furry baby

1. Studies show a combo of wet and dry food are probably best for cats of all ages. Unlike us and most other mammals, cats usually don't chew dry food unless it is a large size kibble. Thus they don't really get a benefit from the abrasion of the chewing motion like humans and dogs do. Also they are obligate carnivores, which means they MUST have a majority of their diet comprised of protein. High protein diets such as this are hard on the kidneys, so most well cared for cats run into kidney problems as an end of life issue. Feeding wet food along with dry helps to up the moisture content and water intake, which is easier on the kidneys. Also if the kitten is recently weaned it will likely eat better if water is added (not milk, most cats are lactose intolerant) to soften the food as it transitions.

2. Store brand foods are usually a low quality type of food. Kitten Chow is better than a store brand (Special Kitty, etc) in most cases, but IAMs, Eukanuba, Science Diet and IVet are usually even better brands if you can get them. You won't need to feed as much to achieve the same nutrition and they often have fewer additives, colors and preservatives. Before feeding a raw diet PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE research the hell out of it and consult your vet. A lot of folks feeding raw diets don't supplement them properly and the pets end up lacking vitamins and minerals as a result.

3. Behavior.....a lot of folks have mentioned not to play with your kitten with your hands and feet and they are 100% correct. What they learn now is what they will do later. A 1 pound kitten nipping your finger may be cute but a 12 pound cat out and out biting when they want attention is most definitely not. If the cat is biting then remove your hands or feet, say NO if you like, but then redirect it to other play with a toy of some sort. Cats need lots of activities or they get bored, which leads to destructive behavior and often obesity. Socializing your cat is important also.....getting them used to different situations can make traveling or boarding later in life much less stressful. Keep the cat carrier out so they can wander in and out of it and become used to it. PLEASE always transport your cat in a carrier. Yes I have watched a scared cat that jumped out of their owner's arms run into traffic and get hit by a car....not so much fun.

4. Please do take the kitten to a vet, and I believed you mentioned you were looking for one. Just an FYI.....you get what you pay for, so when you are shopping around please compare the services you are getting for the money. If they are vaccinating they really should do an exam to make sure your cat is ok to receive those vaccines. Cats are masters at hiding conditions until they are emergencies, so keeping up on care is important. Checking a stool sample for intestinal parasites is important. Most vets will likely deworm your kitten but no 1 dewormer gets all parasites, so checking to make sure there are not others is important. Several intestinal parasites that cats and dogs carry can be transmitted to people, so thats another reason to get it checked.

5. Another poster mentioned dental care and this is also an important part of your cat's health. You CAN brush your cat's teeth if you work on it as a step by step method. It is also a great way to bond with your cat because it becomes a routine you do together. Your kitten will lose it's teeth between the 4-6 month period, and you may not even notice them, but you can start getting him used to having his mouth handled beforehand. Cats are very much "What's in it for me" types, so make sure that you reward the behavior positvely. When the cat lets you stroke his mouth or lift his lip giving him a treat or a play session with a favorite toy will link that good feeling with your handling of his mouth. You can progress from lip lifting to running your finger around his teeth to actually brushing. DO NOT use human toothpaste as the fluoride will make them sick when they swallow it (and they will). You don't even need toothpaste, just a wet toothbrush or washcloth will be abrasive enough to clean the plaque off their teeth. Try to do it 2-3 times a week at minimum and it will make a HUGE difference. Studies have shown that routine dental care can extend your pets life upwards of 5 years, just like with humans.

6. In regards to declawing I will say this.....it's really up to you. If you do decide to declaw it is best to do it before they are 4 months old. With proper pain medication it is a minimally painful procedure...BUT GET PAIN MEDICATIONS!!! If you can train your cat to scratching posts and keep their claws trimmed it may not even be something you need to consider. If it becomes an issue of the cat destroying the furniture and you are considering giving it up, declaw the cat.

7. Lastly, litter.....most cats take to the litter box with minimal training. Unscented, clumping litter is usually best. Scented litters are nice for us but can be too much odor for the cat and cause them to avoid it. Cheap clay litters tend to be very dusty and can cause airway irritations in some cats, as well as being harder to keep clean. Keep the litter pan in a separate, quiet area from the rest of the house and away from the cat's food. Most cats do not like their food/water near their litter pan and this can also cause problems. It is not a bad idea to have 1 litter box/cat and 1 extra on top of that. Gives the cat options and if they are super fussy about the box can also keep them from going in the corner. IF your cat starts peeing/pooping outside the litter box and you have cleaned the boxes and not changed the type of litter, get them checked for a urinary tract infection. What starts as painful peeing can lead to litter box aversion and a habit of going outside the box. The majority of cats surrendered to humane societies are there because of inappropriate elmination issues.

OK I think I am done....lol. I know this was a huge amount of info but it's what I talk to people about every day. I have done my best to give a general outline, but again, if in doubt see a vet. Most things start small and are cheaper money and emotion wise to deal with when it is a minor problem than if you leave it go. Good Luck with your new kitty....mine are a joy and I hope your's will be too!

Wonderful information, Thank you very much for taking the time to post that.

I picked up some Purina Kitten Dry food, and few cans of wet food. I also picked up their Tidy Step Litter.

As for the vet I wasn't searching much for price more for their pet owners reviews. So I was looking more for just a quality vet really.

[zoobernut]

Hi there....I am Bigrougabagel's aforementioned wife. I am a certified Veterinary Technician with over 9 years of experience. So now that you know I am not blowing smoke, here are some general recommendations for your new furry baby

1. Studies show a combo of wet and dry food are probably best for cats of all ages. Unlike us and most other mammals, cats usually don't chew dry food unless it is a large size kibble. Thus they don't really get a benefit from the abrasion of the chewing motion like humans and dogs do. Also they are obligate carnivores, which means they MUST have a majority of their diet comprised of protein. High protein diets such as this are hard on the kidneys, so most well cared for cats run into kidney problems as an end of life issue. Feeding wet food along with dry helps to up the moisture content and water intake, which is easier on the kidneys. Also if the kitten is recently weaned it will likely eat better if water is added (not milk, most cats are lactose intolerant) to soften the food as it transitions.

To comment on the food thing my wife's last job was as a research biologist and her project in her lab (she was by herself in her lab) was to produce a food additive for cat food that once the cat ate the food the additive would bind to the compounds that largely contributed to kidney failure and the cat would poop it out instead of having it pass through the kidneys. She even filed for several patents but I am not sure the status on those as she is no longer working for that lab.

Also we feed our cats Felidae it is really good food. I think she gives our cats wet food once or twice a week.