BG: What do you drive? (PICS)

[bluefan]

Yeah, my brothers first car is a 2011 Soul too. It's not too bad in terms of price/performance. But yes, very stiff. It handles terribly on the rough roads here.

[Adajer]

2014, Ill take an interior pic and post tom

[Omnipotent]

fucked up pics, nvm. Edited out

[*Shinzon*]

I hope there are 4 hamsters hanging out in that car at all times.

[Boyiee]

Ended up picking this up a couple weeks ago, new job new car etc.





my gsxr 750's peeking out of the garage in the first pic.

[jmc]

Beautiful

[Adajer]

sweet, same here, new job new car.

Kinda mad, bird shit on my car, but its threatening rain. Wondering if I should wash car anyway, or wait til after rain.

[Boyiee]

First things first, gonna black out the rims maybe covers on calipers if I can decide a color. Still looking to wire leds on the interior probably blue, and eventually a new exhaust

[Adajer]

Is there anything to this "engine break in" for new cars?

Some people are saying you shouldnt go too fast for first few hundred miles, others are saying you should oil change after 20miles(this is the one that has me like wtf, already?).

Any truth or necessity to these break in procedures?

[Quixon]

It's an automatic? If so just drive it like you normally would. 500-600 miles before you beat on it. It's a Kia optima though, I don't envision you beating on it lol.

Changing the gear oil that early is stupid on a new car. The oil filter is there for a reason.



Edit: 2 bucket method to wash the car. You don't want swirl marks. 1 bucket soapy water, 1 bucket clean. Rinse wash mitt in rinse bucket , then soap it up. Do panel, then rinse the mitt.... Then soap the mitt. Rinse/repeat. Wash top to bottom, front to back.

Washing it this way saves you paying someone like me $350+ fix your paint lol.

[Boyiee]

I've spun the tires about 3 times and hit a buck twenty in the first 500 already, fuck it lol.

[*Shinzon*]

Is there anything to this "engine break in" for new cars?

Some people are saying you shouldnt go too fast for first few hundred miles, others are saying you should oil change after 20miles(this is the one that has me like wtf, already?).

Any truth or necessity to these break in procedures?

There is definitely a break in period. You shouldn't beat on the car continuously while all the oils and preservatives are still in the system. I also wouldn't change the oil so early until all that crap starts to come out. There's really no reason to change your oil so quickly / frequently. New oil compounds and go a lot longer between changes, but its good practice to just be regular about it. That said you won't break the car if you beat on it right away as long as its not a constant thing.

Also with new cars, you should get your oil changed at the dealer as to document maintenance while the car is under maintenance because dealers will try to wiggle out of covering anything if they can.

[jmc]

I usually got with the 1k mile break in period.

The only time I change the oil would be if the car was sitting on the lot for months before purchase.

[Fr34k]

I've actually read that beating on the motor a little during break in helps to "file down" the piston rings and helps with compression in the chamber. In the long run you end up burning less oil and having more power. Something like once a day or so floor it through second gear. You want varying engine rpm while breaking it in, not steady highway miles. At least that's what I remember reading when I was looking into it.

[Quixon]

That's all myth lol. You aren't filing anything down in the engine by driving that way. You are filing it down by simply driving the car. The amount of metal that is released by the engine itself is extremely small also. In much older vehicles, this was not the case. The reason you are not supposed to beat on the car is because when you increase your RPMS you are also increasing oil pressure. Oil that theoretically has metal in it (until it runs through the oil filter). By the time the break in period is complete, all of that metal is in the oil filter. All of the metal from the trans and the Diff will be stuck to the magnetic drain plug. You will see much more wear from those parts, but they are also able to handle metal in the fluid. Your trans/diff oil is much stronger and more viscous than standard engine oil.

Will you blow the car up not braking it in, probably not. Could it cause premature wear and ultimately affect the life of the engine in the long run, yup.


Re Oil Changes:

My manual for my car states 4,000 Miles. I've had the oil tests at 4K and it's still well within spec for viscosity. At 5,000 Miles the oil just starts to degrade, this is where I personally change my oil... although it's probably good till 6500-7000 miles.

This is strictly Mobile 1 Dino Oil (Non-Synthetic). Every car is different, and every oil is different. If you aren't sending the oil to a lab like Blackstone, follow the manual strictly for your own good. You also do not have to have the dealership do the oil change or any maintenance. Take advantage if it's free, but it isn't necessary. Just keep the receipts from the oil changes and you'll be fine. Dealerships will scare you into using their overpriced maintenance services and it's really not necessary. If you have to use them, by all means go ahead. Most maintenance tasks are hugely overpriced, and are usually easily down with minimal tools.

Mazda replaced my rear differential for free on warranty. My car hasn't had a single piece of maintenance done on it by anyone other than myself. I had to show record of the service being done, but it was only 1 receipt since the Rear Diff Fluid is only changed every 40k.

[Quixon]

I've spun the tires about 3 times and hit a buck twenty in the first 500 already, fuck it lol.

Do you have the Optima Turbo? If so it's more important to simply make sure the car is up to operating temp before you drive it hard. Ie, don't start the car and start beating on it immediately. Just wait until the temp gauge on the dash is above bottomed out.

Driving the car hard before it's warmed up will gunk up the turbo (valves also) and seize it up. Once the car is warmed up the oil is at it's optimal viscosity and you have no worries.

[Boyiee]

Do you have the Optima Turbo?

no

[*Shinzon*]

That's all myth lol. You aren't filing anything down in the engine by driving that way. You are filing it down by simply driving the car. The amount of metal that is released by the engine itself is extremely small also. In much older vehicles, this was not the case. The reason you are not supposed to beat on the car is because when you increase your RPMS you are also increasing oil pressure. Oil that theoretically has metal in it (until it runs through the oil filter). By the time the break in period is complete, all of that metal is in the oil filter. All of the metal from the trans and the Diff will be stuck to the magnetic drain plug. You will see much more wear from those parts, but they are also able to handle metal in the fluid. Your trans/diff oil is much stronger and more viscous than standard engine oil.

Will you blow the car up not braking it in, probably not. Could it cause premature wear and ultimately affect the life of the engine in the long run, yup.


Re Oil Changes:

My manual for my car states 4,000 Miles. I've had the oil tests at 4K and it's still well within spec for viscosity. At 5,000 Miles the oil just starts to degrade, this is where I personally change my oil... although it's probably good till 6500-7000 miles.

This is strictly Mobile 1 Dino Oil (Non-Synthetic). Every car is different, and every oil is different. If you aren't sending the oil to a lab like Blackstone, follow the manual strictly for your own good. You also do not have to have the dealership do the oil change or any maintenance. Take advantage if it's free, but it isn't necessary. Just keep the receipts from the oil changes and you'll be fine. Dealerships will scare you into using their overpriced maintenance services and it's really not necessary. If you have to use them, by all means go ahead. Most maintenance tasks are hugely overpriced, and are usually easily down with minimal tools.

Mazda replaced my rear differential for free on warranty. My car hasn't had a single piece of maintenance done on it by anyone other than myself. I had to show record of the service being done, but it was only 1 receipt since the Rear Diff Fluid is only changed every 40k.

What model Mazda do you drive? The Mazda manuals are actually not completely accurate for the 2.3L turbo motors. Synthetic is much much better for our engines and actually rotella t6 gives the best results but it's a 5w-40 oil.

[Quixon]

I have an 07 Miata. Anything with a turbo will be better off with Synthetic. The supercharger system I'm installing has a standalone alone system, which will be synthetic as well. The 2.0's rev much higher and use a bit thinner weight on the oil. Synthetic is also better if the car sits for long periods of time without being drive.


If you are in a speed 3, does that have the 6 speed tranny with a little notchy 2nd-3rd Up Shift? Ford Motorcraft synthetic trans fluid fixed that completely for me. I remember someone on these forums owning an RX-8 years back, had problems with the factory paint on the door handles and other places..... that wouldn't of happened to be you would it? My memory typically sucks except for car shit.

[Adajer]

Boyiee is the camaro. I have the optima, non-turbo.