BUT TECHThis thread is for off-the-cuff questions that don't merit a full topic to answer.
BUT TECHThis thread is for off-the-cuff questions that don't merit a full topic to answer.
Does anyone use Cherry Clears or Cherry Blacks? Debating between the 2.
Mmm a new thread to lurk during my work week.
here's a few, i was going to make a new thread but why not post them here instead?
what's the point of www(number).blablabla.com, like www2, www16 all for the same website? my school website uses it and it's always ww2 or www6.blablabla.edu, only the number changes (it also happens on jimmyjohn's website)
how do you own a website? like the .coms, why do i have to buy one from whoever 'owns' it? can i just make up my own .whatever and not have to pay anyone for it and just host it myself? how does that even work? and how do you lay claim to a .com? if i wanted to get sadlfkjsadlkjfsdalkjsadflkjasdflkjsdalfkj.com how does someone else already own the rights to it or i don't really know how to phrase what i'm asking, i'm hoping you tech guys can figure out what i'm trying to say
They're mirrors, used to load balance the websites. They're also used for important websites like governmental or banking websites so there's redundancy if one server suffers hardware failure or needs to be taken down for updates or maitenance, the www2 address will kick in.
I could write a huge explanation for this, but basically the addresses you type into a web browser don't mean much, they're simply registered with a DNS (domain name service) server and translated into numbers. For instance, www.google.com means nothing as it is, but it (currently) is resolved to 72.14.204.103. That IP address represents the actual location in cyberspace of google's servers. You can make a website on any internet connection, even your home one, but if you want to have the name resolve to your IP address you need to register it with a domain service so that a web browser knows where to re-direct it to. People usually don't do this because home connections can't handle website traffic due to bandwidth contraints, and also because home IP addresses can change randomly and without notice depending on who your ISP is.how do you own a website? like the .coms, why do i have to buy one from whoever 'owns' it? can i just make up my own .whatever and not have to pay anyone for it and just host it myself? how does that even work? and how do you lay claim to a .com? if i wanted to get sadlfkjsadlkjfsdalkjsadflkjasdflkjsdalfkj.com how does someone else already own the rights to it or i don't really know how to phrase what i'm asking, i'm hoping you tech guys can figure out what i'm trying to say
You guys are gunna get so tired of me in this thread.
So I'm looking to upgrade the HDD in my PS3 from 60-w/e. Question is, should I bother with a 7200RPM, or a Solid state hybrid drive? Newegg has a nice 500gb 4gb-SS 7200 for $110 I'm really looking at (although it is seagate).
Might as well ask this too. Do the Solid state hybrid drives really help with anything (for a comp)?
Looks like SSD isn't really worth it. link removed
I upgraded my ps3 with this 7200 seagate drive, works great. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822148374
Ok so here is the card I'm going to get probably.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-610-_-Product
What does (with a minimum 12V current rating of 30A) mean though and does my Power Supply support it? I have the one below.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...?EdpNo=2486983
Yeah, that's really the only info I could find. But its from 09, and they are talking about a SSD HDD and not a magnetic HDD SSD hybrid.
Here is a review of, I assume, the hybrid drive you're considering. Seems a good pick for a PC upgrade if you don't have the scratch for a true SSD (or need more space). If a full-on SSD is rarely worth it in a PS3 (I recall some GT5 numbers that showed a benefit), then a hybrid drive likely isn't a big deal either - though the price difference isn't -that- huge.
That's the one, creepy... I will probably do it just for the hell of it, any benefit is something. And as far as the PC goes, I was really just curious.
So thanks Isiolia, that was very good info.
Also, thanks to Chiyio
Edit: I am so bookmarking this, place is full of info.
Is there a good time of the year, specifically this year, to start building from scratch? I'm kind of leery of getting hit with a problem a buddy ran into in building less than a week before the new Intel line arrived this year. Is there anything upcoming to wait for? I'd be aiming for budget/$500~ if that helps.
You've never heard of Ultra? That is one of the top Power Supply brands to my knowledge. Thanks for the answer though.
Could you also answer my other question of what does that mean? I'd like to know for future reference.
It's the nature of the industry. As soon as you buy something, it won't be too long before something better comes along. Intel, AMD, Nvidia, and ATI- the 4 "big" manufacturers of components that you'll want for gaming computers usually roll out new lines of product every 6 months or so, with new revisions about every 3 months inbetween. It's not an exact schedule, but it's close. My advice would be just to pick a time when you want to upgrade and do it all at once.
What is the best Power Supply I can get for under $200?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-021-_-Product
I use and recommended that one to multiple people
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-018-_-Product
After it depends on your needs but those 2 will cover any single graphic card build out there.
Probably not for a budget build. AMD's new architecture (Bulldozer) is due to hit this year, and Intel's successor to Socket 1366 (LGA 2011) is also expected (Q3 I think), along with additional Sandy Bridge chips. AMD may have offering in the market segment you'd be looking at, but as far as Intel is concerned, the products coming down the pipe are higher end than would fit in the budget you mentioned.
It means that your PSU needs to have 30A or greater on the 12V rail. The specs as listed in the link you gave state that it has 36A, so you should be fine.Could you also answer my other question of what does that mean? I'd like to know for future reference.
More or less, it's saying you need to have a single 12V rail (since if they were split, they'd likely be 20A max per) - which is usually the case with a newer PSU. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_rail
Thanks for the replies, it's nice to know ahead of time since the opportunity is months down the road for me anyhow.