Car has "memory steer" issue after new tires and alignment

[Ikith]

Acura Integra GS-R

About a month ago I had my cars tires changed with tires I bought on tire rack, I also had the same place do an alignment, at first I didn't realize what my car was doing I just figured it was the tires wearing in, but now its irritating me.

The issue:
When I steer right and straighten the wheel the car still pulls to the right, and when I steer left and straighten the wheel the car pulls to the left. The tires also look bowed out at the bottom, this wasn't happening before the new tires and alignment (Before the alignment the car was pulling to the left).

When I got the report from the alignment they said everything looked good and the camber wasn't amazing but wasn't bad and that I shouldn't worry about it unless I feel I really need to, and if I did they said they have to order camber rods and that will cost me about $400 each with install, I wasn't ready to spend that much at the time and the way they put it was I shouldn't spend the money and should just rotate the tires every 1000 miles.

I plan on taking it in to a local place that I've heard great stuff about tomorrow or Tuesday, but I'm looking for advice before I actually go there.

[elison]

If by "camber" rods they mean tie rods, then that is a possibility. Tie rods (inner and outer) are these metal rods that connect to the steering rack and your tire.

So yeah, sounds like an alignment issue. Considering you were only having "half" the issue before you changed the tires, I'd say they didn't align them 100% or maybe it's just a coincidence your tie rods are going out around the same time. Also I assume you purchased the correct tires for your vehicle, either basing the numbers off of the manual in your glove box or off of your old tires. Any idea if the shop that aligned it was using an alignment machine? It's possible to align a some vehicles tires using a string, which is why I ask. Generally (obviously) it's not nearly as accurate to align a car this way so that's also a possibility.

Get a second opinion I suppose, and if they tell you it needs to be aligned, take it back to the original shop.

[Ikith]

I used the same tire size that came with the car when I bought it from a friend. I also looked up acceptable sizes and the one that was installed was acceptable.

They also use a machine as far as I know, I'd actually have to call and ask them.

[Kalmado]

I've never heard of rotating tires every 1k miles. Commuters would have to do that every week! As Elison said, second opinion. The Belle Tire in my town is known for telling people they got an alignment when pretty much nothing happens. A lot of people trust them because they are a big name. Find someone you trust or if a family or friend has a regular tech they use.

[Fr34k]

Did you get a print out sheet showing you alignment specs? If not, there's no way to say for sure if you got one. They should have printed out and showed you a paper with the before and after numbers for camber, caster, and toe. If it's red, it's out of spec. Green is in spec.

Also $400 per side is a bullshit number even if it is tie rods, but it sounds like they were trying to sell you camber bolts. Is your GSR dropped? That will create some neagtive camber (tires are like this /---\ instead of like this |---| )

They were most likely trying to sell you something like this

http://www.andysautosport.com/acura/...c01018444.html

That's less than $200 for the pair for a good brand. You can find cheap ones on ebay for around $50 a pair. Trying to charge you $800 for 2 of these is ridiculous, and telling you to rotate your tires every 1k miles is just their way of saying pay us the 800 up front now, or keep coming back every month and paying us to rotate your tires.

[Ikith]

Camber:
Left Front: -2.2 (Red)
Right Front: -1.9 (Red)
Caster:
Left Front: 0.2 (Red)
Right Front: 0.0 (Red)
Toe:
Left Front: 0.02 (Green)
Right Front: 0.02 (Green)

Total Toe: 0.03 (Green)
Steer Ahead: 0.00 (Green)

Left Rear: Camber -1.6 (Green) Toe: 0.09 (Green)
Right Rear: Camber -1.3 (Green) Toe: 0.06 (Green)
Total Toe: 0.14 (Green)
Thrust Angle: 0.02 (Grey)

The car does have adjustable coil overs as my friend said when I bought it, he said it came with the car when he bought it from his dealer.

With that being said, what would it take to get these all in the green? Can you link to the previous mentioned camber bolts (Quality nice ones not cheapo ones)

[Acevalefor]

Where are the right side specs? I see them for the rear, but not for the front.

As far as the steering still pulling weird, it sounds simple, but did you check the air pressure? If it is low, your tires will not return to center no matter how many times you align it.

There is a tire company around here that loves to put your tire pressure at the minimum specs for the vehicle/tire. My truck is supposed to run at 45-60 psi with the minimum pressure at 35 psi. It drives like shit at 35 psi but every time I take it in to rotate the tires (free for the life of the tire) they drop the pressure from the 60 psi that I set it at to the 35 psi that the dumbass at the shop thinks it should be at...

Moral of the story: check your car and verify that everything is as they say and they aren't doing stupid shit or cutting corners so they can charge you $800 for $100 worth of parts.

[Gekii]

Moral of the story: check your car and verify that everything is as they say and they aren't doing stupid shit or cutting corners so they can charge you $800 for $100 worth of parts.

golden rule indeed, would give reps if i could

[Ikith]

Where are the right side specs? I see them for the rear, but not for the front.

As far as the steering still pulling weird, it sounds simple, but did you check the air pressure? If it is low, your tires will not return to center no matter how many times you align it.

There is a tire company around here that loves to put your tire pressure at the minimum specs for the vehicle/tire. My truck is supposed to run at 45-60 psi with the minimum pressure at 35 psi. It drives like shit at 35 psi but every time I take it in to rotate the tires (free for the life of the tire) they drop the pressure from the 60 psi that I set it at to the 35 psi that the dumbass at the shop thinks it should be at...

Moral of the story: check your car and verify that everything is as they say and they aren't doing stupid shit or cutting corners so they can charge you $800 for $100 worth of parts.

The right side specs are right next to the left side specs. I will move them down a notch

[Acevalefor]

The right side specs are right next to the left side specs. I will move them down a notch

I'm retarded...carry on.

[Fr34k]

I mean everything looks good except the camber. My other post up there was for rear camber adjustment which isn't as bad as the front, so your call if you want to use them. Here's a link for a front camber bolt kit

http://www.andysautosport.com/acura/...p00432815.html

You would need 2 sets, since it attaches to the control arm. About $200 for that and your front camber could be set within spec. If you wanted to bring the rear camber back towards neutral, you could also buy these.

http://www.andysautosport.com/acura/...c01018444.html

So less than 400 for all 4 tires, and you might be able to find those parts cheaper on other sites or use coupon codes.

[ringthree]

Camber:
Left Front: -2.2 (Red)
Right Front: -1.9 (Red)
Caster:
Left Front: 0.2 (Red)
Right Front: 0.0 (Red)
Toe:
Left Front: 0.02 (Green)
Right Front: 0.02 (Green)

Total Toe: 0.03 (Green)
Steer Ahead: 0.00 (Green)

Left Rear: Camber -1.6 (Green) Toe: 0.09 (Green)
Right Rear: Camber -1.3 (Green) Toe: 0.06 (Green)
Total Toe: 0.14 (Green)
Thrust Angle: 0.02 (Grey)

The car does have adjustable coil overs as my friend said when I bought it, he said it came with the car when he bought it from his dealer.

With that being said, what would it take to get these all in the green? Can you link to the previous mentioned camber bolts (Quality nice ones not cheapo ones)

I don't know your level of knowledge on cars, so if I ask insulting questions or making insulting comments, just let me know.

A couple of things, no GS-R came with adjustable coil overs from the factory. I assume he either bought it used or doesn't know what he is talking about. (The ITR didn't even have adjustables and didn't need them.)

I would have to look up the specs on the GS-R but that camber doesn't look too bad at all. It's definitely drivable (it looks like a medium setting for A-X). That is just a guess from the numbers.

This is definitely something that had to do with a poor adjustment after you got your new tires. If you know any local A-Xer's, they will almost definitely know where you should go to get a proper one done and they will also probably know what is wrong. (It's not a problem I am familiar with.)

What do you do with the car? A-X? Track? Nothing? It effects what you will want your alignment setting at.

[Ikith]

I don't know your level of knowledge on cars, so if I ask insulting questions or making insulting comments, just let me know.

A couple of things, no GS-R came with adjustable coil overs from the factory. I assume he either bought it used or doesn't know what he is talking about. (The ITR didn't even have adjustables and didn't need them.)

I would have to look up the specs on the GS-R but that camber doesn't look too bad at all. It's definitely drivable (it looks like a medium setting for A-X). That is just a guess from the numbers.

This is definitely something that had to do with a poor adjustment after you got your new tires. If you know any local A-Xer's, they will almost definitely know where you should go to get a proper one done and they will also probably know what is wrong. (It's not a problem I am familiar with.)

What do you do with the car? A-X? Track? Nothing? It effects what you will want your alignment setting at.

Sorry I didn't make that clear, he bought it from the dealer he works at, used. So they came from the previous owner.

The guys I took it to are saying that the upper ball joints are worn and that they should be replaced within the next 1000 to 1500 miles or I risk ruining my new tires.

Edit: They want $800, that tax, parts, labor and new alignment.

[ringthree]

Sorry I didn't make that clear, he bought it from the dealer he works at, used. So they came from the previous owner.

The guys I took it to are saying that the upper ball joints are worn and that they should be replaced within the next 1000 to 1500 miles or I risk ruining my new tires.

Edit: They want $800, that tax, parts, labor and new alignment.

How many miles does it have? Did your friend drive it like an idiot? How lowered is it?

You said it has adjustable coilovers? Did it include the whole strut casing?

[Ikith]

How many miles does it have? Did your friend drive it like an idiot? How lowered is it?

You said it has adjustable coilovers? Did it include the whole strut casing?

Miles: 118000. Not sure how my friend drove it. I don't know the exact numbers on how low the car is. I'd have measure it and I don't have the car at the moment.

Yeah previous owner did adjustable coil overs not sure if they did strut casings as well.

[Furionstormrage]

If the coilovers were set to cause the car to be lowered a decent amount, it could very well just need camber kits to correct the problem. (Ball joints non withstanding, could or could not be related, they do wear out over time)

[ringthree]

If the coilovers were set to cause the car to be lowered a decent amount, it could very well just need camber kits to correct the problem. (Ball joints non withstanding, could or could not be related, they do wear out over time)

Yeah, I am thinking it is link related. I haven't worked on a GS-R before, but it should be something you can get to by just putting the car on stands.